Yearly Archives: 2026

anchors away

dawncraft chronicles

anchors away

Ok first things first ! I’ve sold Dawn Treader – though I sometimes forget I have, because it’s been such a long time -2008 !

More importantly I’ve sold her to people who would enjoy her and are very much like myself at their age – and I think that’s important. The world cannot be just about money: Ask two prominent members of society who fell from grace, if they thought it was worth it!

I think it’s like so many things in life; you gradually grow apart and familiarity keeps you together. Deep down I am a sailor, Atlantic winner, Royal ocean racing club kind of thing and I miss sailing – I miss the sense of power of wind and tide. And I still have a sailing Dinghy which seldom gets used.

Then there are the costs which are turning a hobby into an expensive past time – ok you can’t just divide the hours you spend on a boat with the annual cost of running it, but neither can you ignore rising mooring fees, licence, fuel, gas, - you name it. It all just keeps rising.

Whereas the Dinghy goes on a car roof and can be kept in the shed.

I’ve enjoyed every minute of canals and will (do) miss my adventures in an old Dawncraft my children grew up with – which was "home", escape pod - you name it, and kept me amused and doing something for years. But it’s time, as it seems it is from the adverts for so many other hobby-boaters.

All I can say is thank you for reading my articles. I hope they inspired some of you.

All the best,

Simon Woollen

cooking on the cut – spring 26

cooking on the cut

with Lisa Munday

spring 26

spring blossom

spring blossom

Spring has arrived and it’s the season of foraging as all those bulbs and roots produce their young green shoots after the sleepy winter months. Wild garlic is the most popular and my absolute favourite!

The boat roof garden herbs are showing new growth, probably the earliest being the chives and mint which pair perfectly with Spring recipes. Leafy greens, cauliflower, broccoli and forced rhubarb are also in season, my favourite ways of cooking tender stem broccoli and Spring cabbage are to steam, pan fry or roast and then add some lemon butter or tahini dressing.

It’s also Spring onion and radish season!

This year, in addition to the usual herb roof garden I’m growing some sprouting seeds for micro greens. They can be grown pretty much all year round and include alfalfa, pea shoots, radish and fenugreek, to name a few. Mustard and cress are of course nice and easy to grow without compost or maintenance, just over a few damp pieces of kitchen roll, and just as delicious to add to any light meal.

Sometimes less is more with ingredients and simple pasta dishes can often be thrown together and made delicious by adding combinations using fresh herbs or foraged greens. Tagliatelle tossed in wild garlic, lemon juice, black pepper and good quality oil or a knob of butter is one of these. Add a few chopped walnuts or chilli for an extra twist.

wild garlic beside canal

wild garlic growing beside canal

wild garlic pesto

wild garlic pesto

wild garlic tagliatelle

wild garlic tagliatelle

Roasted veg to include cauliflower and beetroot are delicious when made with a spice rub using cumin seeds or ground cumin, paprika, salt, pepper, lemon and oil; or a harissa spice blend such as rose harissa, distinctive for it’s hot and smoky flavours with a floral sweetness. Serve with hummus, greens or a flatbread for a delicious feast.

Both Tahini and Miso make amazing additions to any dressing to complete any crunchy salad or roasted vegetables. These for me are such useful store cupboard ingredients, just a little jar of paste, bursting with flavour. Tahini, made from ground sesame seeds, gives that nutty and earthy flavour. Miso is made from slow fermented soya beans and grains and gives that intense level of umami to savoury dishes, like a sweet and creamy savoury hit.

PAN FRIED PEPPERS WITH CHICK PEAS AND TAHINI DRESSING
Simply chop red onion and peppers, add 2 tsp rose harissa paste and pan fry, add the chick peas towards the end. Serve over a bed of salad greens and finish with the dressing made from 1 tbsp tahini, 2 tbsp cider vinegar, 1 tbsp olive or avocado oil, pinch sea salt flakes and black pepper, loosen with water.

MISO ROASTED CAULIFLOWER
For the paste:
2 tbsp each of miso, soy sauce, honey or agave syrup,
1 tsp garlic crushed,
splash olive oil,
pinch salt and pepper.
Combine all the ingredients together.

The cauliflower can be left whole, cut into steaks or florets. Cooking time depends on the size.
Coat with the paste and roast in the oven, or pan fry, turning to ensure all sides are equally browned.
Serve with a simple dressing of natural yoghurt, squeeze lemon or cider vinegar, olive oil and
black pepper.

Here’s a twist on a fish pie with a miso twist.

MISO MUSTARD FISH PIE

250g white fish such as Hake, Cod or Haddock
100g greens such as French beans or sprouting broccoli
175g crème fraiche
2 tbsp miso paste
1 tbsp English mustard
2 tsp capers, chopped or 30g gherkins from a jar, finely chopped
small handful fresh chives, chopped, plus extra to garnish
2 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste
juice of ½ lemon
1 tbsp light brown sugar
1 tsp coarse ground black pepper
generous pinch sea salt flakes
Finely sliced and boiled new potatoes (about 500g) with butter to top
Pre-heat the oven to 180 fan.
Par boil the potatoes to just cooked and set aside, using the same water blanch the beans or
broccoli for just a couple of minutes. Make sure they drain well to reduce moisture in the
bottom of the dish when baking.
Line the base of an ovenproof dish with a few potatoes (save the rest for the top) and the drained
cooked greens, lay the uncooked fish on top.
In a separate bowl whisk together all the remaining ingredients and spoon over the fish, covering
completely in a thick layer.
Place the rest of the cooked potatoes over the top, dot with butter and bake in the oven for
about 20 minutes until golden on top.
Perfectly pairs with charred cabbage. Simply cut the cabbage into wedges and char in hot pan
with a little butter, if you prefer a less crunchy version, drop in a pan of hot water first, drain well
and pan fry to char.

pan-fried peppers and chick-peas with tahini

pan-fried peppers and chick-peas with tahini

roast veg with cumin and paprika

roast veg with cumin and paprika

miso mustard fish pie

miso mustard fish pie

Scones are quick and easy to make and most basic scone recipes can be adapted to create different versions. The best one by far has to be the cheese and wild garlic one! Another favourite is a lemon and blueberry, but instead I’m sharing a gluten-free and fat free lemon and blueberry muffin recipe.

CHEESE AND WILD GARLIC SCONES

225g self-raising flour
1 tsp baking powder
50g butter, finely cubed
100g finely grated cheese, mature or smoked Cheddar, Shropshire red works really well
Small handful wild garlic leaves, about 30g, finely chopped
1 tsp cayenne pepper Generous pinch of black pepper
1 egg, beaten
Milk
Extra cheese to top, about 20g
Rub the butter into the flour and baking powder for a crumb consistency, stir in the cheese, cayenne and pepper along with the finely chopped wild garlic leaves. Then add the beaten egg and just enough milk to bring the mixture together.
Turn onto a floured worktop and firm into a round about 2cm thick, then cut into scones.
Dust the cutter in flour to help make a clean cut and work straight down instead of twisting, this keeps a better shape when baking.
Place the scones onto a greased, lined tray and scatter the extra cheese on top.
Bake in a preheated 220 fan oven for about 12 to 15 minutes.
Best eaten warm, sliced and buttered.

blueberry muffins

gluten-free and fat-free blueberry muffins

dandelion honey

dandelion honey

daffodils

daffodils and pussy willow

BLUEBERRY LEMON MUFFINS

Dry ingredients:
1 cup almond flour
1 cup oat flour or rolled oats, I use rolled oats blitzed to a coarse flour in the mini chopper
½ tsp bicarb of soda
¼ tsp salt
½ tsp cinnamon

Wet ingredients:
1 large egg (substitute with flax egg for vegan version)
1 banana mashed (about ½ cup measure)
1/3 cup maple or agave syrup
¼ cup melted coconut oil or olive oil
finely grated zest of ½ lemon and 2 tsp juice
2 tbsp milk or oat milk
1 cup blueberries, if using frozen dust them in flour first.

Mix together the dry ingredients in one bowl and the wet in another. Then combine the two. Gently fold in the blueberries. Spoon into the muffin cases and bake at 175 fan for 20 to 25 mins. Can also be made as a tray bake and cut into squares.

It’s a little early for dandelion season but it won’t be long. So here’s my dandelion honey recipe. It’s perfect for adding to hot drinks, morning porridge, muesli, smoothies, baking recipes such as flapjacks, salad dressings, roasted veg, sticky bbq glaze, salad dressings, the list is endless!

DANDELION HONEY

Pick the dandelion heads when fully open, give each one a gentle shake to let any insects escape and patiently pull the petals from each head for optimum sweetness, the base of the f lower head can have a bitter taste.
Place in a large bowl along with a couple of slices of lemon and just cover with cold water. Leave to steep overnight.
The next day strain all the liquid into a saucepan, it’s best to use a sieve lined with kitchen roll. You’ll be amazed how it already smells like honey.
Measure your liquid and weigh out an equal ratio of sugar, for every ml of liquid use 1g sugar. Bring the liquid to the boil, add the sugar and boil rapidly for a few minutes.
Test for setting point on a cold plate by dropping a little syrup off the end of a teaspoon, tip the plate and if it doesn’t run off it’s ready to jar.
Pour into sterilised jars.
Don’t worry if for any reason your honey doesn’t reach setting point, dandelion syrup is just as good.

Lots more seasonal recipes can be discovered by looking back at previous editions of CanalsOnline magazine, just click on previous articles and four whole years’ worth can be found. More can be found on my Canal Cuisine Facebook page. Have a great Spring and I’ll have more for you in the Summer.

Ken Jolly

author ken jollyKen lives in Texas, but for many years worked for an International Company in the UK. There he learned to appreciate the Towpath and the quiet aspects of British culture. He writes stories about people who live between places where lives move at the pace of water and weather. His Tow Path Series blends contemporary romance, paranormal, and mystery with community-driven storytelling, rooted in the everyday rhythms of life.

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author of the season – spring 26

author of the season - spring 26

ken jolly

towpath tales

ken jolly, authorKen Jolly is a 75-year-old cowboy who lives in Texas. Has the boots and hat. His Great-Great Grandfather led a company of Virginians to Texas in 1836 to fight in the War of the Rebellion and served as First Lieutenant.  He participated in the Grass Fight and the Battle of San Jacinto. He was awarded the Land Grant, which the family still owns. To transport his small force to Texas, he brought a Brig, and after the Texas Navy lost its first four ships, he donated the vessel to the Navy and rechristened it the “San Jacinto”.

In his previous role, Ken served as a CAD/BIM Coordinator at an International Corporation, which required extensive travel. There he learned to appreciate the Tow Path and the quiet aspects of British culture. He can be found on weekends two-stepping at local dives, playing the fiddle, or fly-fishing. He writes stories about people who live between places where lives move at the pace of water and weather. His Tow Path Series blends contemporary romance, paranormal, and mystery with community-driven storytelling, rooted in the everyday rhythms of life.

Ken began writing technical manuals in 2010 and, upon retiring, has recently branched into fiction genres. He has a distinct writing voice across genres and establishes individual character arcs, adding unique direction and credibility to his actors.

electra 3

main 1 sailing dinghy

He is a sailor, and his boat in Texas travels slightly faster than 4 knots when the wind is blowing, and he has often had to execute short tacks while going up canals. He actually lived on board the boat for most of a year through a brutal winter. However, he sees joy in living the slower pace of the canal. A lifelong observer of waterways, Ken is drawn to the quiet drama of small decisions, shared meals, late-night conversations, and the way music, memory, and place shape who we become. His characters are often rebuilding—boats, relationships, and themselves—finding connection not in grand gestures, but in steady hands, shared labour, and the trust earned over time. Some of his writing drifts into the paranormal, as he was the Leader of a ghost-hunting group, Paranormal Investigations and Eliminations (PIE), for many years.

When he isn’t writing, Ken can usually be found walking, studying the craft of storytelling, or listening for the kind of music that sounds better drifting across water at dusk. The Tow Path Series is his love letter to canal communities—past and present—and to the idea that home is always on the water.

mooring lines by Ken Jolly

canal whispers by Ken Jolly

lost chord by Ken Jolly

Amazon books, where Ken's books can be purchased in a variety of forms, introduce his Tow Path Series thus:

"Set along the winding canals and hidden waterways of Europe, The Tow Path Series blends romance, music, and community into a tapestry of modern canal life. Each book explores the lives of those who choose the water as home—narrowboat dwellers, traveling musicians, wanderers, and dreamers—where the pace of the canal contrasts sharply with the turbulence of love, ambition, and second chances.

With recurring characters and overlapping storylines, the series paints an intimate portrait of a floating community bound together by locks, pubs, festivals, and the timeless rhythm of the towpath. The stories explore themes of belonging, self-discovery, and connection, often with a fire-and-wild romantic undercurrent that pushes characters to navigate both their waterways and their hearts.

At once tender and gritty, The Tow Path Series offers readers an immersive escape into a world where every bend in the canal reveals not only scenic vistas, but also new adventures, new faces, and the possibility of love where it’s least expected. "  (Amazon)

Review:

Ken Jolly writes with the precision of an engineer and the heart of a storyteller. A lifelong craftsman of words and design, he has authored acclaimed guides on architecture and technology, but his true passion lies in exploring the human connections that shape our lives.

When he’s not writing, Ken can often be found aboard his sailboat or imagining the quiet towpaths of England’s canals, where the rhythms of water and music inspire his stories. His love of the violin, his eye for detail, and his deep curiosity about people bring authenticity to the characters he creates.

Mooring Lines is his first romance set in the canal boat world, weaving together love, loss, and second chances against the backdrop of narrowboats and community life. With a craftsman’s discipline and a romantic’s heart, Ken proves that love stories told by men can be just as tender, raw, and true.

Backstage Ghosts by Ken Jolly

Christmas on the Towpath by Ken Jolly

Second Chances by Ken Jolly

thin water on the canal, by Ken Jolly

There are currently 7 novels in the Tow Path Tales series, all of which are available on Amazon KIndle The 7th book, 'Thin Water on the Canal', has only recently been published. Some of the books are also available as Audio books,  and all as paperbacks.

Ken's first book in the series, Mooring Lines, can be found serialized in this magazine - Ken Jolly, Author at CanalsOnline Magazine 

professional waterway training

professional waterway training

why professional training underpins safe and responsible waterway operations

Britain’s waterways support a wide mix of activity. Leisure craft, passenger boats, commercial operators, and maintenance vessels often share the same space. This variety brings character and vitality to canals and rivers, yet it also places a shared responsibility on those who operate vessels professionally. Safe conduct on the water depends on preparation, awareness, and respect for recognised standards.

Many risks on inland waterways develop quietly. Restricted visibility, changing weather, shallow channels, and close quarters manoeuvring can all challenge even experienced crews. When these conditions combine with public access and mixed skill levels, the importance of professional competence becomes clear.

Formal learning plays a central role in meeting these challenges, and recognised programmes such as STCW courses provide structured knowledge that supports safe practice across maritime settings. These courses establish a common understanding of safety principles that apply well beyond offshore environments.

Understanding safety responsibilities on inland waterways

Inland waterways are shared spaces. Commercial operators may work alongside private boaters who have varying levels of experience. This mix increases the need for predictable, professional behaviour from those operating vessels as part of their work.

Responsibilities extend beyond vessel control. Awareness of passenger safety, communication with other waterway users, and readiness to respond to incidents all influence outcomes. Professional crews are often looked to as examples of good practice, particularly in busy or constrained areas.

The role of recognised maritime standards

Standards exist to create consistency. When crews share a common foundation of training, expectations become clearer and responses more reliable. International maritime standards provide guidance on safety, emergency response, and personal responsibility that remains relevant across different operating environments.

Training aligned with these standards helps reduce ambiguity. Crews understand not only what actions to take, but why those actions matter. This understanding supports sound judgement when situations fall outside routine procedures.

Training as a foundation for competence

Competence develops through structured learning combined with experience. Training provides the framework that allows experience to be interpreted correctly. Without that framework, habits can replace judgement, increasing risk over time.

How professional training supports everyday operations

Daily tasks on waterways often appear straightforward. Mooring, loading, and navigation become familiar quickly. Training helps crews recognise that routine work still carries risk. Situational awareness, correct use of equipment, and effective communication all depend on underlying knowledge.

When unexpected situations arise, trained crews respond more calmly. Clear understanding of emergency procedures reduces hesitation and confusion, protecting both crew and the public.

waterways rescue training

life ring on waterways vehicle

Relevance of STCW knowledge beyond offshore roles

Although STCW standards are often associated with offshore or international shipping, the principles they teach apply broadly. Fire prevention, first aid, and emergency response are just as relevant on inland vessels, particularly those carrying passengers or operating commercially.

These principles support safer interaction with other waterway users. Professional conduct reduces the likelihood of incidents and builds trust within the wider boating community.

Maintaining competence through ongoing learning

Competence is not static. Equipment changes, regulations evolve, and operating environments shift. Regular refresher training helps crews maintain confidence and update their knowledge as conditions change.

Ongoing learning also supports consistency across teams. New staff integrate more smoothly when training expectations are clear, and experienced crew benefit from revisiting core principles.

Practical benefits for employers and operators

Well trained crews contribute to smoother operations. Incidents decline, communication improves, and regulatory scrutiny becomes easier to manage. Training also supports retention by giving staff confidence in their roles.

Building trust on shared waterways

Public confidence in professional operators depends on visible competence. Calm, predictable behaviour reassures other waterway users and supports cooperation in busy areas. This trust is built gradually through consistent practice rather than isolated actions.

Training reinforces this consistency. Crews who share common standards approach situations with similar priorities, reducing misunderstandings and unnecessary conflict.

Conclusion

Safe waterway operations rely on preparation long before a vessel leaves its berth. Training provides the knowledge that underpins good judgement and responsible conduct. It supports professionals in managing risk while respecting the shared nature of inland waterways.

Recognised learning pathways, including STCW courses, contribute to this preparation by establishing clear expectations and practical understanding. When training aligns with real operating conditions, it becomes a valuable tool for sustaining safety and professionalism across the waterway network.

the first day

the first day

from the reed cutter by Michael Nye

After Lois had completed what was referred to as her epic voyage to the little wharf that once served the land around Bank Top farm, the celebratory evening went on until the early hours. Eventually Astra who had curled up in the window seat, stirred as Lois, who had been sitting next to her, moved to head back to spend the rest of the night on her boat.

 “I should keep you company,” Astra said sleepily. “It's not fair for you to be all alone.”

“I'm fine,” Lois replied.

“So am I,” Miranda, added. “She’s right, and she'll only fret if she doesn't keep you company. Mind you look after her won't you Astra.”

“I will,” the 10 year old daughter of two of the founders smiled. “I'll get a hurricane lamp and we can go off across the meadow.”

“It's very kind of you,” Lois said as the pair walked across Bank Top land, over a stile and across another meadow to the little wharf area where the 17 ft Glass fibre boat was moored. “But I don't really need looking after.”

“I said you looked sort of sad, but not sad sad though,” Astra replied, her face illuminated by the soft glow of the lamp. “Mum thought you might get lonely all the way down here.”

“Well, we'd better get aboard and sort the cabin out, or you might end up sleeping on my typewriter” Lois smiled. “I keep some of my stuff on the bunk I don't sleep on.”

“It's very tidy,” Astra said as she helped Lois rearrange things. “And really cosy,” she added.

“I always think of your Auntie Linda when I get back here. It was so kind of her to just give me her boat when she headed back to Bank Top.”

Lois smiled.

“You call her your Fairy Godmother,” Astra laughed.

“Everyone has one I think, and if they don't then they should do,” Lois smiled. “Now, how about we get that sleeping bag rolled out and turn in. Mind you brush your teeth though. There's a little washbasin under the cover on the starboard side and the bog is on the other side. It's all fresh and clean so don't worry. There's some spare toothbrushes in the locker above the sink.”

When both had done their ablutions, Lois turned the light off and both got into their sleeping bags, after which Astra was very soon sound asleep as her unofficial Auntie sat and watched the pattern of the moonlight reflected from the canal and onto the curtains. Soon she too was asleep.

small boat amongst reeds

sailing boat

Lois was the first to wake the following morning, and sat quietly reading her book as her guest snored lightly in her bunk. The story seemed so real to her in its descriptions that it took her mind into the age when the country was still at war. She imagined herself putting on assemblages of sweaters to keep the cold out as she carried cargo along the waterways as a substitute for the folk that had been called up to be killed and wounded for their country.

“What are you thinking?” Astra said sleepily.

“Not much,” Lois smiled brightly, the kind of brightness that the young girl could see straight through. “I was just having a read.”

“You were, about ten minutes ago,” Astra replied, with a directness that could only come from a child. “Then you closed your eyes. I thought you were going to cry but you didn't.”

“Not much gets past you does it,” Lois smiled, ruffling Astra's hair. “If you want the truth, which you always do don't you. Well I was thinking about all those boater families. The ones that were born to it and would live their lives in that world. Like it was different to anywhere.”

“You're going to say something like then something bad happened,” Astra frowned. “It was the war wasn't it. Mum Dad and Mad Dave talk about it sometimes. Like when they think I'm not listening.”

“I won't lie,” Lois smiled. “There wouldn't be any point. Yes, the book is about three women around my age, younger perhaps. They were doing war work on the canals. I was just thinking of all those people that went off to fight. The ones that came back to work on the boats again. Sorry Astra but they just got shat on. I remember writing something like that in an essay for uni. I used a bit more of an academic term for ‘shat on’ though.”

“You say funny things like Auntie Linda, but I get it,” Astra replied. “They came back from the war and found that someone wanted to close the canals that they relied on for just about everything. There's some people that just like to make a big mess up and it isn't fair.”

“And there's others like you and your lot here that really do care, and make a difference, so that's good. You're like a little beacon yourself, a little Diya in a dark night,” Lois said with a warm smile.

“We do Diwali here,” Astra said as Lois lit the stove. “We have a lot of festivals and stuff, we invent a few more or combine them. There's a lot of people at school think we're weird, you know, the Freak Farm kids. Even the teachers try and get us to tell them how horrible the place really is. Some of the others though, they really get it and think we're really lucky.”

“One light, light that is one though the lamps may be many,” Lois replied.

“Dad's got the record that song's on,” Astra smiled. “Mad Dave and Linda have played it on the banjos. “She's got a really good singing voice.”

“People don't always understand,” Lois said. “Not this, you know, here. Most people understand some good toast and a mug of hot chocolate though,” she added, handing Astra a plate and setting the two drinks on a small pull out table.”

on to the thames

art deco

on to the thames

There was one problem that we needed to overcome before we could cruise the Thames: we needed a licence from the Environment Agency, the government department responsible for policing the non-tidal Thames. The problem was that once we had submitted the application on line, the licence would be posted out to us, but our postal address was back in Sheffield, one hundred and fifty miles away. I called them and explained our dilemma and surprisingly, for a government department, they were extremely helpful and said they would send the licence to the lock keeper at Teddington, marked for the attention of Art Deco and we could pick it up as we passed through.

With that little problem sorted we headed down the Lea navigation, re-tracing the journey we had made over a year ago on our way to Roydon and on towards the Olympic park, an area we were fond of and had come to know well. Around Hackney Wick, just before Old Ford lock, a turn to the right would take us on to the Hertford Union Canal, (known as Ducketts) and past Victoria park to its end at the junction with the Regents canal. There is a cast iron foot bridge over the canal at the junction and the canal narrows considerably, making the turn to the right extremely difficult. For a craft the size of Art Deco it’s impossible to make it in one go and requires a lot of forward and reverse to get her round. The Regents Canal has its challenges, as we know from our previous journey, but fore warned is fore armed and this time we were prepared for the Islington and Maida tunnels.

Victoria Park from Ducketts

Maida Vale Tunnel

Safely through the two obstacles, we arrive in the wonderful Little Venice, where surprise, surprise, we find a mooring spot, so we take advantage of our good luck and spend a couple of nights there as previously we’ve never been able to get a mooring. We can’t linger too long though as our CRT licence expires at the end of the month so it’s onwards and upwards, as they say. We have a long stretch now before we meet the Grand Union canal around Hayes where we turn to the left and head towards Brentford, our entry point on to the river Thames. We are entering into unchartered territory now as we have not cruised this stretch of canal before, so it should make the journey more interesting.

According to the Nicolson Guide we have the Hanwell flight of six locks to negotiate and as we approach the first one someone begins to open the gates for us. It’s getting late in the day and we had planned to wait until the morning before we tackled them so I shout to him and he ceases his task and walks over and helps us moor up. He’s a CRT volunteer and we offer him a coffee, which he gladly accepts, but I have an ulterior motive, a little local knowledge I think is always handy. His advice is invaluable and he explains that due to repeated vandalism the lock is usually manned all the time and is locked when they leave at 4pm. He advises us to get into Brentford as early as possible because although there are good visitor moorings near the town centre they do fill up quickly. He tells us that the volunteers will be back at 10am in the morning which seems a good time to start as there are still three more locks after these six before we reach Brentford.

We are ready for the off when two CRT volunteers arrive at the lock around 10am and one of them asks if we are going down the whole flight. When I tell him that’s our plan he replies, oh good, we like an early workout first thing in the morning and we don’t know if he’s telling the truth or simply being ironic. Due credit to them though, they get on their bikes and proceed to work the locks as we travel down the flight and what we thought would be a very tough morning turns out to be very pleasant one.

We pass a place called Three Bridges, a rare intersection of canal, road and railway with the three bridges stacked on top of one another like children’s building blocks. At lock 94 the volunteer explains that the large building on the canal side used to be a lunatic asylum. Back in the day that was the name given to what we now call a secure hospital. He points out an unusual feature, a series of purpose built holes in the wall where the firemen put their hose, included because the inmates were constantly setting fire to the building! There’s even a bricked up portico leading from the canal for goods and inmates to be delivered directly into the facility. Ealing hospital has taken over the site but the section near the canal is still a secure unit and boasts it’s own farm, brewery and bakery.

The volunteers leave us at the bottom of the flight and we thank them for helping us negotiate the flight, leaving us with just three more locks to go before we reach Brentford. The next lock, Osterley, needs a BW key to open two of the four paddles and I didn’t realise so I had to go and find it and after we are through I keep hold of it, needless to say at the next lock Clitheroe’s, it’s not required. Never mind. We finally make it into Brentford dock and on first sight, it doesn’t look as though there are any free moorings, but a guy on a moored boat shouts over to us and directs us to a fourteen day leisure mooring, complete with a water point near by. What a day it turned out too be! The gods must have been smiling down on us, not only did we have help with the Hanwell locks but we’ve filled up with water and managed to get a fourteen day mooring in Brentford marina. It’s the little things in life that count!

Once we are moored we take a walk around the marina and agree that it’s very similar to Limehouse Basin, both are small tranquil havens amongst the hustle and bustle of a modern city. We come upon the marina office and chat to the lock keeper about the Thames and our passage on to it. We only need to book a time slot twenty four hours in advance, he tells us and as we still have two weeks left on our CRT licence we can relax and spend a few days here. Kew Gardens are just a short walk away, across the river so we will certainly spend a day there and from Brentford rail station we can get a train direct to Waterloo and spend some time in central London.

We meet the guy who pointed out the mooring as we are returning to Art Deco and he invites us on to his boat for a coffee, he has something unusual to show us he says, how can we refuse an invitation like that? We descend the rear steps into the main cabin and immediately see why he was so keen for us to come aboard, for dominating the space is a piano, now that’s something you don’t see every day on a canal boat! Ok his boat is a ‘mini wide beam craft at ten foot wide and the piano is an upright one, but even so it’s still surprising. He’s a northern lad from Manchester and has lived on his boat for the last ten years and moves every fourteen days to keep within the CRT regulations. He knows the area like the back of his hand and we spend a pleasant few hours with him as he passes on his knowledge. He knows the best local pubs too and we agree to meet him tomorrow lunch time for a few pints. Back on Art Deco, enjoying a glass of wine in the evening, we reflect on the day and how lucky we’ve been and hope that it’s a portent of what’s to come in the future.

We did take advantage of the full fourteen day mooring and enjoyed exploring the local area and discovered two museums in Brentford, the Musical Museum and the London Museum of Water and Steam. Guess which one we visited? It’s no contest, steam wins every time for me. We visited central London a couple of times and enjoyed a day exploring Kew Gardens too, so we certainly got our money's worth out of the mooring. We thoroughly enjoyed our time in the marina but it was time to move on, the river Thames was calling!

Art Deco in Limehouse Basin

boats on regents canal

It was a bright and sunny spring day when we left the comfort of the marina and made the short cruise down to the Thames lock reaching it at 10.20, over an hour early but there was already a narrow boat waiting. Chatting, as we waited, we learn that the couple live in Berkhamsted and are planning to cruise up to Oxford. They have two boats but they haven’t taken this one on the Thames before and are a little apprehensive because it’s so low in the water. Looking at it, I think that I’d be uneasy too. They tell us they have seen our boat in Berkhamsted. We seem to be very memorable: everyone it seems remembers Art Deco, a case of once seen, never forgotten. They tell us that getting diesel on the Thames can be a problem because many of the marinas are gated and not open to the general public. There is a small marina at Reading which they use, just below Caversham lock with easy access from the river and I make a mental note. We were due to leave the lock at 11.30 but we don’t leave until 11.45am, apparently due to the tide, which seems like a lame excuse to me as tides can be predicted years in advance. Another narrowboat has joined us and they go into the lock before us and sit alongside our new friends and we follow them in. The lock is massive and our little convoy looks lost in the vast space but all goes well and we are cruising the Thames by midday.

The wide expanse of the river spreads out before us and looks quite daunting after the confined waters of the canal, but the going is easy and we are helped along by the incoming tide. We have cruised on rivers before, the Lea and Stort but they are little more than drains compared with the tidal Thames. When you think about the tide you associate it with the sea but the coast is miles away, yet the tide still has an effect on the river at this point. We are actually travelling up river, going against the natural flow but it doesn’t feel like that because the incoming tide is more powerful than the natural flow and in fact overcomes it and pushes us along. It’s also the sheer width of the river that’s the problem for me, I’m not use to being so far from dry land! But it’s strange how quickly you adjust to the different conditions and surroundings and soon our anxiety turns to enjoyment as we settle in.

We pass Kew Gardens and Syon House, the seat of the Duke of Northumberland and I have read that this stretch of river, between Kew and Hampton Court is called The Arcadian Thames because of its unique landscape, richly ornamented buildings and designed parkland. We cruise under Twickenham bridge and we are looking out for Richmond lock but we don’t need to use it because it’s only used at low water. Richmond lives up to its name, definitely top end real estate here and this is the theme of our cruise and you would expect no more from the most important river in the country. We have been cruising the river for a little over an hour when we see Teddington lock in the distance, the tidal lock. Once through the lock we are on the non-tidal section, the lock acting as a barrier to the ebb and flow of the tide. We have been following the two narrow boats that we shared Brentford lock with and enter Teddington lock in the same formation, the two narrow boats side by side and Art Deco behind them. They take off up river when the lock gates open but the keeper calls out, I’ve been expecting you, but your licence hasn’t turned up yet. Moor up at the end of the pontoon on the visitor moorings, he tells me and when you're ready come and see me and we’ll sort you out.

art deco boat graphics

When we’re securely tied up I walk down to the lock and find the keeper in the hut, filling out paper work. He tells me it normally costs £8.50 a night to moor at the lock and it’s limited to no more than three nights but because we are waiting on the Environment Agency he will waver the fee until our licence arrives, which is a great deal for us, as we are in no rush to move on.

The mooring is across from the long and dramatic weir that stretches down to the bridge leading to Teddington town centre, and it is here that the flow of the River Thames is monitored and that can be up to 15,000 million gallons per day in times of flood. Teddington lock is the lowest and largest on the non-tidal Thames and is well known as the place where the river changes colour, signifying it’s the highest point to which the tide flows. Before the lock was built in 1810 the tide flowed eleven miles further upstream, as far as Staines before its effect was lost. The spring sunshine, it seems, had woken the good people of Teddington from their winter hibernation and the towpath is quite busy, it’s amazing how a little bit of sun cheers everyone up.

Quite a few people stop and talk, interested in the pros and cons of life aboard a boat, so I am intrigued when one gentleman doesn’t ask the usual questions but says; I like what you’ve done with the graphics, nodding to the logo on the side of the boat; it’s a modern take on the roses and castles that adorn traditional canal boats, he says. I’m shocked, he’s the first person to mention the graphics, so I ask him to explain his thinking, wondering if he really understands. Well, he says the stylised Mackintosh rose represents the roses and the squares represent the battlements of a castle… roses and castles. He’s right and I’m so pleased that someone has finally noticed it, but my euphoria is short lived when he says; The design's not Art Deco though, it’s more in the style of the Arts and Crafts movement, and walks away without further comment.

We take a stroll into Teddington and are pleased to see that the high street is similar to the ones in the towns and villages we visited on our trip up the Grand Union, holding the corporates at bay and keeping their independent shops, something that cannot be said for our Northern towns. After a pleasant stroll we return to the boat and spend a lazy afternoon on board because tomorrow we start phase two of TLC on Art Deco, we are going to polish the roof. We cleaned and polished most of the boat while we were in Brentford but didn’t get round to the roof. This short statement doesn’t convey the hard work that it entails and after three and a half hours on our hands and knees we are both knackered! We are now waiting for it to rain, the satisfaction of a job well done is to see the rain drops standing proud of the paintwork.

While we are working the lock keeper comes by and says our licence has arrived so I walk back with him and pick up the paperwork. He says that we can stay for three more nights if we like but we would have to pay £8.50 per night. We want to visit Strawberry Hill House which is nearby so I pay him for two more nights and we will make the visit tomorrow.

Strawberry Hill House was built in the early 18th century by Horatio Walpole, 4th Earl of Orford who was an English Whig politician, writer, historian and antiquarian. The house itself is a large and quirky Gothic mansion and is filled with Walpole’s eccentric collection of gothic items and a décor that can best be described as gloomy. It’s set in 46 acres of land and when we visited there was an exhibition of strange human/animal shaped sculptures and they looked perfectly at home in the landscape of this eccentric place. We enjoyed the visit and spent a full day there looking round the house and exploring the vast gardens.

It was time to move on though, we had been moored at Teddington for five days and the power in batteries was down to 55%. I had been advised not to let the charge fall below 50% so we were in need of a long cruise to get them back up to scratch and we were desperate to start our adventure on the Thames. We had a website designed and ready to go live but we thought we should hold fire and familiarise ourselves with our new surroundings and get to know the river a little better before we started taking on any guests.

the ‘spanish inquisition’

the curious incident of the bacon butty...

... a broken tiller and a mid-life crisis

Willow Wren Hire Boat

The author returns to the Willow Wren Boatyard, Rugby, from where he first cast off in 1975 - for a twenty year adventure!

“We’ll go on the Canal Cruise – it sounds a bit different” came Mel’s monotone voice.

Still, I’m pleased that she and Alec, the Church’s youth leaders, have made a positive choice for a summer holiday with CYFA (the Church Youth Fellowship Association) – the main Church of England Youth organisation. I had already been a leader on a couple of CYFA holidays based at Independent school campuses, but I’d never really noticed the Canal Cruise before as a potential holiday option.

My next move is to contact Roger, the cruise leader - who is a vicar in a northern parish. I learn that the cruise consists of four seventy foot narrowboats, with room for 35 youngsters plus ten leaders – and he suggests that the two of us should meet up and take one of the boats out on the Oxford canal for an afternoon’s training.

I’m intrigued.

casting off

It’s a fresh and misty February afternoon when Roger and I step aboard ‘Crane’ for my two hours of training in narrowboat handling. Rays of weak winter sunshine filter through the chilly mist as Roger casts off the ropes, then jumps on the back and, with a chug, chug, chug from the diesel engine – the boat slowly slides forward through the water, under Roger’s careful supervision. He will take the boat along the short canal arm until it meets the main Oxford Canal. Turn left and you get to Coventry and the north, turn right and you get to Oxford and London. But not today.

After checking for other unsuspecting boats, we turn right onto the Oxford Canal, and head off for Hillmorton locks, a gentle hour’s cruising away – where we will turn the boat around and return to the boatyard. Once in mid-stream, Roger steps aside and hands me the tiller, my aim being to keep the boat in the middle of the canal where there is (normally) the deepest water. It actually seems pretty easy, until the bow (front) seems to be drifting towards the left bank. So to correct, I naturally push the tiller to the right – but that only makes the drift worse, and we end up close to the bank! So Roger takes over to deal with the immediate situation, and he soon gets us back into the middle:

“You see James, it’s the opposite of driving a car. In a car, if you want to go right, you steer to the right. But on narrowboat, if you want to move the boat to the right, you take the tiller to the left! And vice-versa. It’s completely counter-intuitive.”

So I work on this basic principle as I need to correct the boat’s natural drift almost all the time and full-time concentration is required. Not as easy as I thought! So I find myself always

keeping to the middle of the canal

the aim is to keep the boat in the centre of the canal!

checking the line of the bow which is 70 feet in front of me. The next problem is when I realise that the bow takes quite a few seconds to respond to the tiller’s movements. And it’s easy to think that it’s not moving and so you correct with the tiller – too early – and then get confused as to whether you are going left or right. Then panic sets in! So basically, you need to shift the tiller – and then wait 10 seconds for the boat to respond. The longer the boat, the longer it takes to respond – and we’ve got 70 foot of it, pivoting in the middle! It’s another steep learning curve, but I’m enjoying it, as eventually we arrive at Hillmorton locks where Roger offers to turn the boat around in the ‘winding hole’. The way to do it, it seems, is to steer the front of the boat into the apex of the winding hole and keep the throttle going gently forward, with the tiller hard over, as the back turns in the opposite direction to the front. Then, with a few bursts on the reverse throttle, the boat drifts back to mid-canal and pointing in the opposite direction from where we came. Simples!

On the return journey, I now face the horror of seeing another boat coming towards us in mid-canal, so I need not to panic, but to get the steering steady and spot on, as I nudge Crane slightly to the right without hitting the bank. This I manage to do and the boats pass easily with several feet of water between us - relief! Roger now lets me steer the boat all the way back to the boatyard, where he assists with the throttle, in order let the boat gently slide to a stop right next to the Willow Wren wharf. Easy if you know how.

“Well done James - you picked that up really well. I’ll put you down as one of our eight skippers on the CYFA cruise. There will always be two of you on board to help each other.”

For me, a new world has just opened up, and I’m excited at the prospect of the forthcoming CYFA cruise, meeting up with Roger again, and with many new leaders and members to get to know - hopefully more affable than my own church’s youth leaders. Still, at least they are giving it a try - they might even enjoy it! But doubtless they are, like me, a bit apprehensive at starting out on new adventure - not knowing what lies ahead and what the outcome of their choice might be.

spanish inquisition

Amid the excitement of learning how to handle a 70’ narrowboat, I had conveniently forgotten about another aspect of the CYFA Canal Cruise, that Roger had asked me to take over from him: chaplaincy duties. Among other things, this included my ”getting alongside” the church-based youngsters on an individual basis, to help and guide them with their faith. I was rather taken aback by this because, for whatever reason - perhaps my own introversion - this did not sit comfortably with me.

I did not want to become, or be seen as, a sort of evangelical Spanish Inquisition!

Therefore in some reflective moments before the holiday itself, I found myself asking some pertinent questions:

In my new adventure, how would I fare?

How would my church’s youth group take to it?

Would the holiday be a one-off experience, never to be repeated?

Would my boat-handling skills be good enough?

But, more to the point, how would I cope - as the Spanish Inquisition? It felt more like a difficult place to be, rather than a soft cushion or a comfy chair! [1].

“Ha! Ha!” I think to myself. “But no-one expects the Spanish Inquisition” - least of all, me!

painting of boat on canal

1. This refers to the well known sketch in Monty Python’s Flying Circus. First shown on TV in 1970, now available on You Tube. It’s worth a watch! In point of fact, the phrase “No-one expects the Spanish Inquisition” was also a joke, as the Spanish Inquisition actually wrote ahead to its victims, to advise them of their impending arrival, and their need to be upholding orthodox morals and beliefs.

mooring lines 4

mooring lines

chapter four

The canal had its own way of waking a man. Theo was still learning it. He sat cross-legged on the roof of his narrowboat, feeling the cool damp seep through the denim of his jeans, the violin balanced against his knee. Around him, the world was undecided, half caught in the tatters of mist, half revealed by the sun’s gold intrusion. Every sound felt close here: the plink of water against steel, the caw of a crow staking territory, even the faint tick of his instrument’s peg as the morning chill shifted the wood.

He drew a slow breath. Mornings on the cut were too honest. No crowds, no distortion, no lights or amplifiers to dress up the truth. Out here, every note landed bare, stripped of decoration. If you played carelessly, the canal threw the carelessness back at you. If you played fiercely, the water remembered.

He lifted the violin into place, the chin rest cool against his jaw. The first stroke of the bow rasped a complaint rather than a greeting. He grimaced and tried again, dragging the tune forward, willing his fingers to find the shape. What came out was neither polished nor broken, but something in between, like a voice cracking on a confession. It was the kind of sound he had fled the city to uncover again, the one that lay beneath noise and applause. Yet hearing it made him restless.

Theo told himself he had wanted this: an escape from the band’s suffocating rehearsals, the dressing-room arguments that never quite erupted but never quite settled. But quiet was its own tyrant. It left him alone with the ache of wondering whether the fire inside him was dwindling. The last gig’s applause had sounded obligatory. Even his bandmates had stopped meeting his eyes.

The bow slipped, screeching against the string. Theo swore softly and lowered the instrument. He rubbed his face with the heel of his hand, hair falling into his eyes. You asked for space, he reminded himself. You begged for silence. Now here it is. So, what’s your excuse?

A crunch of footsteps on the towpath pulled him back. He turned his head, and there she was, the woman from the boat down the line. Yesterday, he had seen her fumbling with her mooring lines, tying and retying with the anxious energy of someone who wanted mastery but had only muscle memory to show for it. He had noticed the raw line burns on her palms, the way she stared at the water as though waiting for permission. Today, in the clear light, he noticed more.

Chestnut hair pulled hastily back, a jacket that seemed chosen for memory rather than warmth, boots that were still learning the towpath. She carried herself like someone who had inherited both a vessel and a burden.

Theo felt a flick of recognition, as unwelcome as it was undeniable. She carried weight in her shoulders the way he carried it in his chest. Different stories, same gravity.

“You always sneak up on people like that?” he asked, because humour was easier than truth.

Her apology came quickly, cheeks colouring. And when she said she had grown up on the boat, her chin lifted in that way people do when they’re daring you to contradict them. Theo studied her, letting the silence lengthen. The line marks. The stubborn glint. The grief she tried to swallow.

“Doesn’t mean you belong to it yet,” he said. The words had sharper edges than he intended, but the truth was like that. Boats didn’t reward sentiment. They respected patience, rhythm, and respect. Bloodlines didn’t make the knots hold.

Her eyes flashed, defensive, then shuttered. He almost regretted it. Almost. He had lived too long with false applause; better to give her honesty, even if it stung. When she asked if he belonged, he laughed quietly. Did he belong anywhere? Not really. Only to the violin, and even that relationship felt precarious these days.

“For now,” he said, and played again, letting the notes dismiss her and protect him both. Yet when she walked away, the sound of her footsteps lingered, a rhythm his bow tried to echo without meaning to. He watched her disappear into the mist and, against his better judgment, felt that he would notice her absence more than he should.

By midmorning, he was restless. The boat’s cabin was too small, the silence too loud. He slung the violin into its case and set out toward the village. The towpath underfoot had its own percussion: the crunch of gravel, the soft give of damp earth at the edges. Crows stalked the furrows of nearby fields, and the smell of tilled soil carried on the breeze.

Theo’s reflection in a window caught him as he passed. Tall and lean from a life of touring, shoulders slightly stooped from too many nights carrying gear and too many mornings waking up in borrowed beds. His hair dark, unkempt, brushing the collar of his jacket—framed a face that wore its fatigue honestly. Eyes a shade between green and grey, depending on the light, always seemed older than the grin he could still summon when he wanted to charm. He had the hands of a musician: long-fingered, calloused, restless even when idle.

The bridge appeared around a bend, stone arched and moss-flecked. Just beyond, the day widened into a market square. Theo paused at the edge, taking it in. Stalls spilled colour against the grey stone: oranges stacked in pyramids, jars of honey glowing like captured sunlight, loaves dusted white with flour. Voices tangled in the air, vendors calling prices, children laughing, the occasional bark of a dog tied to a post.

It should have been ordinary. To Theo, it felt theatrical, like a stage set designed to remind him what community looked like. He drifted among the stalls, hands in pockets, the violin case bumping against his leg. A baker offered him a heel of bread, warm from the oven; he bit into it and tasted both kindness and salt. At another stall, a woman sold coal by the sack, her arms corded with strength from lifting more than her share. Theo bought a small bag, the weight digging into his shoulder, grounding him.

At the far end of the square, music rose: another fiddle, but not his. Rough, rustic, joined by a squeezebox and a whistle. A group of locals had gathered, tapping feet, laughing when the rhythm wobbled and then righted itself.

Theo felt his chest tighten with recognition. The fiddler was an older man, late sixties, hair silver but still thick, posture steady despite the years. His violin bore the marks of long service: varnish worn pale where fingers had pressed thousands of tunes into it. He played with a simplicity that carried weight. No flash, no showmanship, just melody drawn clean, like a well-cut stone.

Theo lingered at the edge, listening. The old man’s bowing was economical, each stroke purposeful. It was music shaped by tradition, by nights in pubs and mornings at fairs, by repetition until the tunes lived in muscle and marrow. Theo’s own style had always been fire and edge, leaning on speed, bending notes until they broke. This man’s style was river water: steady, patient, inevitable.

Their eyes met briefly across the crowd. The old fiddler’s gaze was sharp but not unkind, as if measuring Theo without judgment. Theo inclined his head in acknowledgment, and the man answered with the barest nod before slipping back into the tune.

Theo’s fingers twitched at his side, itching for the bow. Yet he stayed still. This wasn’t his stage. Not yet. He let the melody wash over him, feeling both humbled and provoked, aware of how much he had to learn and how different their paths had been.

As the crowd clapped and coins rattled into a cap, Theo turned away. He had come here to disappear, not to measure himself against tradition. Yet he carried the sound with him down the row of stalls, a counterpoint to his own restless fire.

And through it all, he found his thoughts circling back to Ivy, the raw hands, the stubborn lift of her chin. Belonging was something they were both wrestling with, though in very different arenas. He adjusted the coal sack on his shoulder and walked back toward the canal, violin case knocking against his hip, the echo of two very different fiddles playing in his mind.

mooring lines 3

mooring lines

chapter three

The next morning arrived with an optimism that felt almost unfair. Sunlight burned the mist away in uneven patches, leaving the canal striped in gold and shadow. The roof of Ivy’s boat glistened with dew, droplets rolling into thin lines before vanishing at the gutter seams. Birds took the day as their cue to be loud gulls squabbling over scraps, blackbirds stitching their notes across hedgerows. The world was awake whether she was ready or not.

Ivy emerged from the cabin squinting, a mug in one hand, her father’s cap in the other. She hadn’t worn it yet, only carried it like an object that she still needed permission. She turned it over in her fingers, thumb tracing the faint curve where his hand had always adjusted the brim. Finally, she set it on her head. The weight was small, but it changed how she felt her spine stack itself. She looked out across the cut and whispered, “Well, here we are.”

A man passed on the towpath leading a pair of dogs that strained in opposite directions. He lifted a hand in greeting. Ivy managed to return the gesture without spilling her coffee, though her smile felt unpractised. People along the canal noticed newcomers. Some tested them with silence, others with conversation. Either way, the water carried word faster than gossip had any right to travel.

She busied herself with the small work of the boat, checking the fenders, tapping the deck boards with the toe of her boot to listen for any hollow places, coiling a line that didn’t strictly need coiling. Each action steadied her, though underneath it all ran the pulse of the memory from yesterday: the man with the violin, Theo, his music threading through the fog. The canal had introduced them, but only on its terms. She wasn’t sure she wanted more, and she wasn’t sure she had a choice.

The sound of hammering drifted down the row of moorings. Someone was making repairs, the metallic rhythm irregular but determined. She followed it with her eyes and saw an older man in overalls repairing a hatch cover on his boat. He looked up, caught her watching, and tipped his flat cap in acknowledgment. Ivy nodded back. A little exchange, small as a coin, but it felt like her first earned currency on the cut.
By mid-morning, she knew she couldn’t avoid the errand any longer. Supplies were thin; she needed coal for the stove, milk, bread, and things to turn the galley from storage into a kitchen. The nearest village was a mile along the towpath. She set out with a canvas bag over her shoulder, boots crunching the gravel in a rhythm that matched her nerves.

The path curved past fields furrowed from the last ploughing, crows stalking the ridges like inspectors. At a bend, the sound of music stopped her in her tracks. Violin again. Not distant this time, but immediate, close enough she could hear the rasp of bow on string, the breath between phrases. Theo sat on a low stone wall, the case open at his feet, the bow dancing quickly and sure across the strings.

She considered turning back before he noticed. But the choice evaporated when he raised his head, eyes finding hers with the same inevitability as yesterday. He finished the tune before speaking, the last note hanging like a question.

“Morning, line-burn,” he said, his mouth tugging into that half-smile.

Ivy felt heat rise in her face. “That’s not my name.”

“It could be,” he said easily, resting the violin against his knee. “Names come from somewhere.”

She adjusted the strap of her bag. “I’m Ivy.” She put the word down firmly, as if staking a claim to the ground.

“Theo,” he said, though she already knew. The woman with the dog had told her, but hearing it from him was different, like a secret repeated for the first time.

For a moment, neither spoke. Birds chattered in the hedge. A barge engine grumbled in the distance, its thrum carrying along the water. Theo tightened his bow hair, more ritual than necessity. “Off for supplies?”

She nodded. “Trying to make the boat liveable.”

“Coal yard’s just past the bridge. Grocer’s across from the pub. You’ll find both faster if you ask, but you’ll remember better if you get lost first.”

“Do you always give instructions that sound like riddles?” she asked.

He considered that, then grinned openly for the first time. “Only when they’re true.”

She surprised herself by smiling back. The wariness didn’t vanish, but it shifted, made room for curiosity. She adjusted her grip on the bag strap and moved to go. “Thanks,” she said.

Theo lifted the violin again, bow already coaxing a new melody. “See you on the water, Ivy.”

His music followed her down the path, weaving into the rhythm of her footsteps until she couldn’t tell if she was carrying it with her or if it was carrying her. By the time she reached the bridge, she realized she was humming along.