Yearly Archives: 2026

the ‘spanish inquisition’

the curious incident of the bacon butty...

... a broken tiller and a mid-life crisis

Willow Wren Hire Boat

The author returns to the Willow Wren Boatyard, Rugby, from where he first cast off in 1975 - for a twenty year adventure!

“We’ll go on the Canal Cruise – it sounds a bit different” came Mel’s monotone voice.

Still, I’m pleased that she and Alec, the Church’s youth leaders, have made a positive choice for a summer holiday with CYFA (the Church Youth Fellowship Association) – the main Church of England Youth organisation. I had already been a leader on a couple of CYFA holidays based at Independent school campuses, but I’d never really noticed the Canal Cruise before as a potential holiday option.

My next move is to contact Roger, the cruise leader - who is a vicar in a northern parish. I learn that the cruise consists of four seventy foot narrowboats, with room for 35 youngsters plus ten leaders – and he suggests that the two of us should meet up and take one of the boats out on the Oxford canal for an afternoon’s training.

I’m intrigued.

casting off

It’s a fresh and misty February afternoon when Roger and I step aboard ‘Crane’ for my two hours of training in narrowboat handling. Rays of weak winter sunshine filter through the chilly mist as Roger casts off the ropes, then jumps on the back and, with a chug, chug, chug from the diesel engine – the boat slowly slides forward through the water, under Roger’s careful supervision. He will take the boat along the short canal arm until it meets the main Oxford Canal. Turn left and you get to Coventry and the north, turn right and you get to Oxford and London. But not today.

After checking for other unsuspecting boats, we turn right onto the Oxford Canal, and head off for Hillmorton locks, a gentle hour’s cruising away – where we will turn the boat around and return to the boatyard. Once in mid-stream, Roger steps aside and hands me the tiller, my aim being to keep the boat in the middle of the canal where there is (normally) the deepest water. It actually seems pretty easy, until the bow (front) seems to be drifting towards the left bank. So to correct, I naturally push the tiller to the right – but that only makes the drift worse, and we end up close to the bank! So Roger takes over to deal with the immediate situation, and he soon gets us back into the middle:

“You see James, it’s the opposite of driving a car. In a car, if you want to go right, you steer to the right. But on narrowboat, if you want to move the boat to the right, you take the tiller to the left! And vice-versa. It’s completely counter-intuitive.”

So I work on this basic principle as I need to correct the boat’s natural drift almost all the time and full-time concentration is required. Not as easy as I thought! So I find myself always

keeping to the middle of the canal

the aim is to keep the boat in the centre of the canal!

checking the line of the bow which is 70 feet in front of me. The next problem is when I realise that the bow takes quite a few seconds to respond to the tiller’s movements. And it’s easy to think that it’s not moving and so you correct with the tiller – too early – and then get confused as to whether you are going left or right. Then panic sets in! So basically, you need to shift the tiller – and then wait 10 seconds for the boat to respond. The longer the boat, the longer it takes to respond – and we’ve got 70 foot of it, pivoting in the middle! It’s another steep learning curve, but I’m enjoying it, as eventually we arrive at Hillmorton locks where Roger offers to turn the boat around in the ‘winding hole’. The way to do it, it seems, is to steer the front of the boat into the apex of the winding hole and keep the throttle going gently forward, with the tiller hard over, as the back turns in the opposite direction to the front. Then, with a few bursts on the reverse throttle, the boat drifts back to mid-canal and pointing in the opposite direction from where we came. Simples!

On the return journey, I now face the horror of seeing another boat coming towards us in mid-canal, so I need not to panic, but to get the steering steady and spot on, as I nudge Crane slightly to the right without hitting the bank. This I manage to do and the boats pass easily with several feet of water between us - relief! Roger now lets me steer the boat all the way back to the boatyard, where he assists with the throttle, in order let the boat gently slide to a stop right next to the Willow Wren wharf. Easy if you know how.

“Well done James - you picked that up really well. I’ll put you down as one of our eight skippers on the CYFA cruise. There will always be two of you on board to help each other.”

For me, a new world has just opened up, and I’m excited at the prospect of the forthcoming CYFA cruise, meeting up with Roger again, and with many new leaders and members to get to know - hopefully more affable than my own church’s youth leaders. Still, at least they are giving it a try - they might even enjoy it! But doubtless they are, like me, a bit apprehensive at starting out on new adventure - not knowing what lies ahead and what the outcome of their choice might be.

spanish inquisition

Amid the excitement of learning how to handle a 70’ narrowboat, I had conveniently forgotten about another aspect of the CYFA Canal Cruise, that Roger had asked me to take over from him: chaplaincy duties. Among other things, this included my ”getting alongside” the church-based youngsters on an individual basis, to help and guide them with their faith. I was rather taken aback by this because, for whatever reason - perhaps my own introversion - this did not sit comfortably with me.

I did not want to become, or be seen as, a sort of evangelical Spanish Inquisition!

Therefore in some reflective moments before the holiday itself, I found myself asking some pertinent questions:

In my new adventure, how would I fare?

How would my church’s youth group take to it?

Would the holiday be a one-off experience, never to be repeated?

Would my boat-handling skills be good enough?

But, more to the point, how would I cope - as the Spanish Inquisition? It felt more like a difficult place to be, rather than a soft cushion or a comfy chair! [1].

“Ha! Ha!” I think to myself. “But no-one expects the Spanish Inquisition” - least of all, me!

painting of boat on canal

1. This refers to the well known sketch in Monty Python’s Flying Circus. First shown on TV in 1970, now available on You Tube. It’s worth a watch! In point of fact, the phrase “No-one expects the Spanish Inquisition” was also a joke, as the Spanish Inquisition actually wrote ahead to its victims, to advise them of their impending arrival, and their need to be upholding orthodox morals and beliefs.

mooring lines 4

mooring lines

chapter four

The canal had its own way of waking a man. Theo was still learning it. He sat cross-legged on the roof of his narrowboat, feeling the cool damp seep through the denim of his jeans, the violin balanced against his knee. Around him, the world was undecided, half caught in the tatters of mist, half revealed by the sun’s gold intrusion. Every sound felt close here: the plink of water against steel, the caw of a crow staking territory, even the faint tick of his instrument’s peg as the morning chill shifted the wood.

He drew a slow breath. Mornings on the cut were too honest. No crowds, no distortion, no lights or amplifiers to dress up the truth. Out here, every note landed bare, stripped of decoration. If you played carelessly, the canal threw the carelessness back at you. If you played fiercely, the water remembered.

He lifted the violin into place, the chin rest cool against his jaw. The first stroke of the bow rasped a complaint rather than a greeting. He grimaced and tried again, dragging the tune forward, willing his fingers to find the shape. What came out was neither polished nor broken, but something in between, like a voice cracking on a confession. It was the kind of sound he had fled the city to uncover again, the one that lay beneath noise and applause. Yet hearing it made him restless.

Theo told himself he had wanted this: an escape from the band’s suffocating rehearsals, the dressing-room arguments that never quite erupted but never quite settled. But quiet was its own tyrant. It left him alone with the ache of wondering whether the fire inside him was dwindling. The last gig’s applause had sounded obligatory. Even his bandmates had stopped meeting his eyes.

The bow slipped, screeching against the string. Theo swore softly and lowered the instrument. He rubbed his face with the heel of his hand, hair falling into his eyes. You asked for space, he reminded himself. You begged for silence. Now here it is. So, what’s your excuse?

A crunch of footsteps on the towpath pulled him back. He turned his head, and there she was, the woman from the boat down the line. Yesterday, he had seen her fumbling with her mooring lines, tying and retying with the anxious energy of someone who wanted mastery but had only muscle memory to show for it. He had noticed the raw line burns on her palms, the way she stared at the water as though waiting for permission. Today, in the clear light, he noticed more.

Chestnut hair pulled hastily back, a jacket that seemed chosen for memory rather than warmth, boots that were still learning the towpath. She carried herself like someone who had inherited both a vessel and a burden.

Theo felt a flick of recognition, as unwelcome as it was undeniable. She carried weight in her shoulders the way he carried it in his chest. Different stories, same gravity.

“You always sneak up on people like that?” he asked, because humour was easier than truth.

Her apology came quickly, cheeks colouring. And when she said she had grown up on the boat, her chin lifted in that way people do when they’re daring you to contradict them. Theo studied her, letting the silence lengthen. The line marks. The stubborn glint. The grief she tried to swallow.

“Doesn’t mean you belong to it yet,” he said. The words had sharper edges than he intended, but the truth was like that. Boats didn’t reward sentiment. They respected patience, rhythm, and respect. Bloodlines didn’t make the knots hold.

Her eyes flashed, defensive, then shuttered. He almost regretted it. Almost. He had lived too long with false applause; better to give her honesty, even if it stung. When she asked if he belonged, he laughed quietly. Did he belong anywhere? Not really. Only to the violin, and even that relationship felt precarious these days.

“For now,” he said, and played again, letting the notes dismiss her and protect him both. Yet when she walked away, the sound of her footsteps lingered, a rhythm his bow tried to echo without meaning to. He watched her disappear into the mist and, against his better judgment, felt that he would notice her absence more than he should.

By midmorning, he was restless. The boat’s cabin was too small, the silence too loud. He slung the violin into its case and set out toward the village. The towpath underfoot had its own percussion: the crunch of gravel, the soft give of damp earth at the edges. Crows stalked the furrows of nearby fields, and the smell of tilled soil carried on the breeze.

Theo’s reflection in a window caught him as he passed. Tall and lean from a life of touring, shoulders slightly stooped from too many nights carrying gear and too many mornings waking up in borrowed beds. His hair dark, unkempt, brushing the collar of his jacket—framed a face that wore its fatigue honestly. Eyes a shade between green and grey, depending on the light, always seemed older than the grin he could still summon when he wanted to charm. He had the hands of a musician: long-fingered, calloused, restless even when idle.

The bridge appeared around a bend, stone arched and moss-flecked. Just beyond, the day widened into a market square. Theo paused at the edge, taking it in. Stalls spilled colour against the grey stone: oranges stacked in pyramids, jars of honey glowing like captured sunlight, loaves dusted white with flour. Voices tangled in the air, vendors calling prices, children laughing, the occasional bark of a dog tied to a post.

It should have been ordinary. To Theo, it felt theatrical, like a stage set designed to remind him what community looked like. He drifted among the stalls, hands in pockets, the violin case bumping against his leg. A baker offered him a heel of bread, warm from the oven; he bit into it and tasted both kindness and salt. At another stall, a woman sold coal by the sack, her arms corded with strength from lifting more than her share. Theo bought a small bag, the weight digging into his shoulder, grounding him.

At the far end of the square, music rose: another fiddle, but not his. Rough, rustic, joined by a squeezebox and a whistle. A group of locals had gathered, tapping feet, laughing when the rhythm wobbled and then righted itself.

Theo felt his chest tighten with recognition. The fiddler was an older man, late sixties, hair silver but still thick, posture steady despite the years. His violin bore the marks of long service: varnish worn pale where fingers had pressed thousands of tunes into it. He played with a simplicity that carried weight. No flash, no showmanship, just melody drawn clean, like a well-cut stone.

Theo lingered at the edge, listening. The old man’s bowing was economical, each stroke purposeful. It was music shaped by tradition, by nights in pubs and mornings at fairs, by repetition until the tunes lived in muscle and marrow. Theo’s own style had always been fire and edge, leaning on speed, bending notes until they broke. This man’s style was river water: steady, patient, inevitable.

Their eyes met briefly across the crowd. The old fiddler’s gaze was sharp but not unkind, as if measuring Theo without judgment. Theo inclined his head in acknowledgment, and the man answered with the barest nod before slipping back into the tune.

Theo’s fingers twitched at his side, itching for the bow. Yet he stayed still. This wasn’t his stage. Not yet. He let the melody wash over him, feeling both humbled and provoked, aware of how much he had to learn and how different their paths had been.

As the crowd clapped and coins rattled into a cap, Theo turned away. He had come here to disappear, not to measure himself against tradition. Yet he carried the sound with him down the row of stalls, a counterpoint to his own restless fire.

And through it all, he found his thoughts circling back to Ivy, the raw hands, the stubborn lift of her chin. Belonging was something they were both wrestling with, though in very different arenas. He adjusted the coal sack on his shoulder and walked back toward the canal, violin case knocking against his hip, the echo of two very different fiddles playing in his mind.

mooring lines 3

mooring lines

chapter three

The next morning arrived with an optimism that felt almost unfair. Sunlight burned the mist away in uneven patches, leaving the canal striped in gold and shadow. The roof of Ivy’s boat glistened with dew, droplets rolling into thin lines before vanishing at the gutter seams. Birds took the day as their cue to be loud gulls squabbling over scraps, blackbirds stitching their notes across hedgerows. The world was awake whether she was ready or not.

Ivy emerged from the cabin squinting, a mug in one hand, her father’s cap in the other. She hadn’t worn it yet, only carried it like an object that she still needed permission. She turned it over in her fingers, thumb tracing the faint curve where his hand had always adjusted the brim. Finally, she set it on her head. The weight was small, but it changed how she felt her spine stack itself. She looked out across the cut and whispered, “Well, here we are.”

A man passed on the towpath leading a pair of dogs that strained in opposite directions. He lifted a hand in greeting. Ivy managed to return the gesture without spilling her coffee, though her smile felt unpractised. People along the canal noticed newcomers. Some tested them with silence, others with conversation. Either way, the water carried word faster than gossip had any right to travel.

She busied herself with the small work of the boat, checking the fenders, tapping the deck boards with the toe of her boot to listen for any hollow places, coiling a line that didn’t strictly need coiling. Each action steadied her, though underneath it all ran the pulse of the memory from yesterday: the man with the violin, Theo, his music threading through the fog. The canal had introduced them, but only on its terms. She wasn’t sure she wanted more, and she wasn’t sure she had a choice.

The sound of hammering drifted down the row of moorings. Someone was making repairs, the metallic rhythm irregular but determined. She followed it with her eyes and saw an older man in overalls repairing a hatch cover on his boat. He looked up, caught her watching, and tipped his flat cap in acknowledgment. Ivy nodded back. A little exchange, small as a coin, but it felt like her first earned currency on the cut.
By mid-morning, she knew she couldn’t avoid the errand any longer. Supplies were thin; she needed coal for the stove, milk, bread, and things to turn the galley from storage into a kitchen. The nearest village was a mile along the towpath. She set out with a canvas bag over her shoulder, boots crunching the gravel in a rhythm that matched her nerves.

The path curved past fields furrowed from the last ploughing, crows stalking the ridges like inspectors. At a bend, the sound of music stopped her in her tracks. Violin again. Not distant this time, but immediate, close enough she could hear the rasp of bow on string, the breath between phrases. Theo sat on a low stone wall, the case open at his feet, the bow dancing quickly and sure across the strings.

She considered turning back before he noticed. But the choice evaporated when he raised his head, eyes finding hers with the same inevitability as yesterday. He finished the tune before speaking, the last note hanging like a question.

“Morning, line-burn,” he said, his mouth tugging into that half-smile.

Ivy felt heat rise in her face. “That’s not my name.”

“It could be,” he said easily, resting the violin against his knee. “Names come from somewhere.”

She adjusted the strap of her bag. “I’m Ivy.” She put the word down firmly, as if staking a claim to the ground.

“Theo,” he said, though she already knew. The woman with the dog had told her, but hearing it from him was different, like a secret repeated for the first time.

For a moment, neither spoke. Birds chattered in the hedge. A barge engine grumbled in the distance, its thrum carrying along the water. Theo tightened his bow hair, more ritual than necessity. “Off for supplies?”

She nodded. “Trying to make the boat liveable.”

“Coal yard’s just past the bridge. Grocer’s across from the pub. You’ll find both faster if you ask, but you’ll remember better if you get lost first.”

“Do you always give instructions that sound like riddles?” she asked.

He considered that, then grinned openly for the first time. “Only when they’re true.”

She surprised herself by smiling back. The wariness didn’t vanish, but it shifted, made room for curiosity. She adjusted her grip on the bag strap and moved to go. “Thanks,” she said.

Theo lifted the violin again, bow already coaxing a new melody. “See you on the water, Ivy.”

His music followed her down the path, weaving into the rhythm of her footsteps until she couldn’t tell if she was carrying it with her or if it was carrying her. By the time she reached the bridge, she realized she was humming along.

fundraising walks on the canals

a canal wanderer

fundraising walks on the canals - diaries

Leeds & Liverpool canal

Huddersfield Narrow Canal trees

Between September and December 2025, I raised crucial funds for Bahar Women’s Association, a community project based in Leeds, walking 92.5 miles over 20 walks. More than enough funds were raised for the project to continue, in the interim, to provide essential support to women in need and their families. It has been a life changing and rewarding experience and I plan to do more fund raising for the project in the spring. Canal walks were included on this walk and I covered 4 canals over 8 of my favourite walks as follows.

Calder and Hebble Navigation

Elland, Calder & Hebble Navigation

Brighouse to Sowerby Bridge (Calder and Hebble Navigation)- 8.11.25

I began my 9th walk of 8 miles on the Calder and Hebble Navigation from Brighouse to Sowerby Bridge in West Yorkshire. The 21-mile waterway starts at Wakefield with its eventual finish at Sowerby Bridge or vice versa. At the beginning of the walk, I was enamoured with the weeping willow trees between the water and towpath. 

Autumn Wonderland played its part on the walk. It was stunning to see the change of colours and the variety of trees particularly beech, oak and sycamore. It is agreed that autumn is a most wonderful time of the year. As an artist I felt thoroughly inspired and I was mentally planning my mono printing and cyanotyping schedule! 

Almost at the half way point, I stopped for lunch and afterwards continued towards Salterhebble (Saw the River Hebble), the Halifax Arm, Copley and on towards Sowerby Bridge.  I stopped by at the Moonbean Coffee Boat for refreshments just before I reached Sowerby Bridge. Their hot chocolate and bakes are amazing and are highly recommended! 

I eventually arrived in Sowerby Bridge, where the Calder and Hebble Navigation finishes and the Rochdale Canal begins.

Huddersfield Narrow Canal

Uppermill, Huddersfield Narrow Canal

Diggle Circular (Huddersfield Narrow Canal) - 25.10.25

My 7th walk of 5.5 miles was going to be on another canal and to one of my all-time favourite canal walking stretches, the Huddersfield Narrow Canal in Saddleworth. On arrival at Greenfield Station, in Greater Manchester, I recommend Platform 13 Café, a lovely brunch, and is opposite the station. Afterwards I descended the road towards the canal and started the walk. Walking on the canal in Saddleworth during autumn is a personal highlight of mine particularly through Uppermill. Trees, particularly beech and oak trees, line the canal and the coloured leaves cloak the towpaths. I then ascended towards Diggle via Dobcross. There are plenty of interesting engineering feats and industrial heritage to observe on the canal such as the many locks lining up, the Saddleworth Viaduct and Transport Shipment Warehouse in Dobcross, and the Standedge Tunnel. The three and a quarter mile Standedge Tunnel is known as the longest, the deepest and highest in the country and it traverses to the other side of the Pennines, to Marsden and eventually Huddersfield in West Yorkshire.

Leeds and Liverpool Canal

Leeds and Liverpool Canal

Leeds to Kirkstall (Leeds and Liverpool Canal) - 18.10.25

I initially was planning to walk the next day but it forecasted heavy rain and instead planned a morning walk on the canal on this day.

My 6th walk was started at the first lock in the city centre and followed the towpath towards Liverpool, which is over 127 miles! I have walked on all the canal, in stages, in 2017 and it is certainly one of my life achievements.  On this walk it is approximately 3-4 miles and a bit  from Leeds City Centre to Kirkstall via Armley.

The canal was busy with other walkers, cyclists, and runners, but even so, it felt peaceful and calm with the stunning autumn colours enveloping the canal and towpath. Autumn is one of my favourite seasons and I aspire to  recreate the colourful trees in my photographs and paintings.

I finished my walk at Kirkstall Bridge and sought refreshments at Kirkstall Bridge Shopping Centre.

Apperley Bridge to Kirkstall, Leeds and Liverpool Canal- 13.12.25

My 19th walk took me to the Leeds and Liverpool Canal where I walked from Apperley Bridge to Kirkstall. A walk of approximately 5.5 miles.

It was a long walk down Harrogate Road towards the canal from the bus stop. Still, I was very happy to see blue skies and sunshine and no rain in sight!

My penultimate walk was pleasant through the surrounding countryside. It was busy with cyclists, runners, and walkers especially with dogs. I think there was a running race happening at the same time as I was walking. 

In Rodley I stopped at the Tiny Tea Room for refreshments. I then continued walking towards Horsforth, Newlay, Bramley Falls Park and Kirkstall Forge via three locks. I eventually arrived in Kirkstall and caught my bus home.

Crossflatts to Saltaire (Leeds and Liverpool Canal) - 5.10.25

I started the 4-mile walk, my 3rd one, later than planned due to a train delay. The weather was dry and sunny but still very windy following Storm Amy.

Starting in Crossflatts, I descended the canal via the infamous Bingley Five Rise Locks, an engineering marvel (built in 1774), and through Bingley and Dowley Gap including its aqueduct (crossing the River Aire).

The canal goes through Hirst Woods and Hirst Locks. I took a little detour to the Higher Ground Hirst Lock Cafe for some refreshments. Afterwards I finished the walk in Saltaire which is famous for its Salt Mills and the village itself.

Gargrave to Barnoldswick, Leeds and Liverpool Canal- 16.11.25

The weather forecast was dry and sunny so I took the opportunity to do my 11th walk on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. The recent rainy weather has been a setback for the planned walks on this fundraising project.

On arrival in Gargrave, I walked half a mile or so to the canal where I started my walk. It is approximately 7.5 miles to Barnoldswick.

The walk took me through some of the most scenic landscape on the canal. This includes the Summit, the highest point, on the canal.  There are some interesting canal engineering features such as the locks. I especially love the signature bridges, including the double arched Bridge (Bridge 161), and they fit beautifully in the surrounding landscape. 

I had a lunch stop just before East Marton on the infamous zig zag stretch. I also stopped for refreshments at The Abbots Wharf, half way on the walk, and at Greenberfield Lock Stop Cafe at The Summit and just before finishing at Barnoldswick.

I thoroughly enjoyed this walk and I was appreciative of the Yorkshire and Lancashire countryside. I subsequently arrived in Barnoldswick in good time (wanted to be off the canal before it got dark), waited for my Skipton bound bus and alighted at the railway station for my train back home.

Rochdale Canal

Rochdale Canal - the summit

Littleborough to Todmorden (Rochdale Canal) - 31.10.25

My 8th walk was on the Rochdale Canal, a canal that traverses through the Pennines. I chose to walk from Littleborough in Greater Manchester to Todmorden in Calderdale. The 5 mile walk takes in the Summit, the highest point on the Canal.

I made my ascent on the canal towards the Summit and stopped at the Summit Pub for lunch. I continued and soon made my descent towards Walsden.

The autumn colours on the canal, particularly in the Summit area, and the hills were stunning with the patchwork of yellows, oranges and browns. 

It began raining on and off in Walsden and it got heavier. I decided to walk the remaining mile to Todmorden on the road (fortunately they have pavements). The towpath on the stretch was muddy in places and some of the stretches were flooded. I did not want to walk on the towpath with those conditions anymore especially in the rain. I sought the dry and the warmth when I had refreshments in the White Hart Pub afterwards.

Hebden Bridge to Sowerby Bridge, Rochdale Canal - 30.11.25

I had the opportunity to return to Calderdale, West Yorkshire and the Rochdale Canal, for my 15th walk of this fundraising project. It was cold, temperature wise, but sunny and importantly, no rain!

I started at Hebden Bridge and walked the 5.5 mile walk to Sowerby Bridge . Hebden Bridge is a busy place with plenty of boats moored in line. Traversing through Fallingroyd tunnel I soon arrived at Mytholmroyd and had the opportunity to stop at the Moonbeam Coffee Boat again for refreshments. They were previously moored at Copley Bridge on the Calder and Hebble Navigation and I stopped there on a previous walk when I walked from Brighouse to Sowerby Bridge.

I continued after refreshments through the stunning Calderdale (South Pennines) countryside towards Luddenfoot and eventually Sowerby Bridge, the canal’s terminus or vice versa.

 

My other walk updates and details about the fundraising project in general can be read via this link

mooring lines 2

mooring lines

chapter two

Chapter 2

The mist came in low, dragging its soft belly across the canal until the water and sky were the same washed color. Sound felt smaller inside it—contained somehow—like the clink of a mooring ring or the far flap of a heron’s wings had been wrapped in wool. Paint on the cabin roof held beads of moisture the size of pinheads; when Ivy brushed past, they merged into tiny rivulets and slid to the gutter seam with a sound like a whisper.

Her fingers were raw from checking the stern line. She told herself she was only making sure, only learning the lines as she went, but the truth sat heavier in her chest. She had retied the cleat hitch three times before dawn, each time convinced the last attempt had been careless, or proud, or simply wrong. She did not want to drift away in the dark.

You keep checking the line because it’s something you can control, she thought, drawing the line through her palm until the fibers bit. You can’t tie a knot around grief.

She eased her weight back and tested the set. The line held, and the boat answered with a small creak of protest. That little sound steadied her. She looped the tail, tucked it neatly, and told herself to leave it be. The canal breathed against the hull, a slow exhale, as if the water itself found this morning tiring.

Inside, the kettle would be weeping under its lid by now. Tea might have been kinder than coffee to a nervous stomach, but coffee felt like armor, and she wanted armor. She stood with her hands against the cold cabin metal, letting the chill drain heat from her palms until the shaking she hadn’t admitted to slowed.

A sudden shout from two cyclists on the towpath broke the quiet. They arrowed past, leaving a wake of laughter and wet gravel crunch. Their voices unraveled into the fog almost as soon as they’d flung them, and the canal closed around the gap.

That was when she heard it. It reached her as a thread, almost too thin to notice, then caught and held notes slipping like dark fish just under the surface. Not some radio. Not the tinny leak of a phone. A violin.

The first phrase was a question with no words. The second sounded like weather coming in. A reel tried to start and thought better of it; the bow dragged a little too hard on the lower strings, then recovered into something that made the hair along Ivy’s arms lift. She turned her head toward the sound without deciding to. The towpath ran a gray ribbon beside the water; along it, the morning smelled of wet earth, diesel ghosts, and the sharp green of bruised grass. Ivy slid her hands into her jacket pockets and stepped down to the path, boots landing soft on packed grit. She paused at the end of her mooring just long enough to check the bow line, ridiculous, and then let the music pull her along.

She passed a boat painted a jaunty red with a kettle chiming faintly in its galley, then another with a garden of pots that someone had made, featuring serious rosemary, thyme, and a stubborn flower clinging to its greenery. A dog behind a curtain gave one dignified bark and let her go. The violin gathered itself as if it, too, were listening for her, and then the sound swelled.

He was perched on the roof of a black‑hulled narrowboat three moorings down, as casual as a gull on a rail. The bow faced into the slight flow, a thick line taking its fair share of weight around a metal bollard on the bank. He had one knee up, boot sole flat, the other leg stretched out. Long hair, dark and in need of a decision, fell forward until he shook it back with a twitch at the end of a phrase. The instrument sat with the ease of long practice in the corner of his jaw; the bow arm did not fuss, it drew.

Ivy stopped where the towpath narrowed a little, not yet close enough to feel like she’d made a choice. The music was not polished. There were places where muscle memory looked for a familiar road and found the towpath washed out. But there was something in the way he leaned into the low strings that made her chest answer. It felt like someone arguing with the morning and not minding if the morning argued back.

The bow stilled. It hovered for a beat, then he let it down onto his thigh with a sigh that didn’t belong to the fog. He lifted his head and met her eyes like a man glancing at a clock he already knew the time of.

“You always sneak up on people like that?” he asked. The voice had the scrape of late nights and the ease of someone who didn’t apologize for them.

Heat moved up her throat before she could tamp it down. “Sorry,” she said, hugging her arms tighter across her chest as if she could pull the apology back inside. “I didn’t mean to intrude. I just… heard you.”

One corner of his mouth crooked, but he didn’t commit to a smile. He slid the bow under the strings at the chin rest and laid the violin across his lap like a cat he didn’t entirely trust. “Not the worst crime.” His gaze ticked past her shoulder to the mist erasing the far bank. “You’ve got the look of someone new to this life.”

Her chin rose before her senses could catch up. “I grew up on that boat,” she said, tilting her head toward her mooring. It came out too fast, as if speed might be mistaken for certainty. He studied her for two seconds longer than was polite. His eyes weren’t unkind. They were doing a job, taking in the fidget at her cuffs, the raw line where line had run her palm, the careful way she held her weight like someone not yet fluent in the boat’s movement.

“Doesn’t mean you belong to it yet,” he said. Not cruel. Not even smug. Just a sentence carried forward by its own momentum. “Boats take more than blood to love you back.”
The words landed where she kept the soft things. She felt the little flinch, concealed mostly by the cold. He isn’t wrong. She loathed that thought immediately and then, annoyingly, admired him a fraction for saying the thing out loud.

“And you?” she asked, because retreat tasted worse than the question. “Do you belong here?”

He breathed a laugh through his nose. “For now.” He pushed his hair from his eyes with the back of his wrist and glanced down at the violin, as if it had given him a cue. “Until the road calls louder than the water.”

“Is that soon?” She surprised herself with the question. She hadn’t meant to invite more of him into her morning than the music already had.

His mouth tipped, that almost‑smile again, and didn’t answer directly. Instead, he set the instrument and bow in place with the quiet economy of habit. “Depends who’s listening,” he said, and let the bow drop to the strings.

The first note this time was clean as glass. It slid into a tune that remembered how to be a reel, then turned its face and became something older. He shifted on the roof with a tiny grimace as if his back had opinions. The boot heel started to mark time, not neat, not trying to be. Ivy stood there long enough to feel foolish for standing there. She made herself nod, the kind of nod that is both thanks and goodbye, and turned to go. The music followed anyway. It threaded the mist as if the fog were staves on a page only he could see.

By the time she reached her own stern, she wasn’t sure if she was bristling at his certainty or at her reaction to it. She rechecked the line, ridiculous, again, then stepped aboard and ducked into the cabin. The kettle had boiled itself into silence and now sulked. She poured anyway and watched the black ribbon curl through the mug. The galley window held a blurry rectangle of the world outside: grey water, ghost trees, the vague suggestion of him on the roof three boats down.

Boats take more than blood to love you back.

She set the mug down too hard. The clack of ceramic on wood sounded like a small admission. She pressed her palms to the counter and felt the planks under her feet transmit a slow knock as someone trod the towpath outside.

Her father’s cap still hung on the hook by the door. She had told herself not to wear it, not yet. It made his absence too literal. Sharing air with something that had held his sweat and his laughter felt like asking for trouble. But the sight of it steadied her, the way a horizon steadies your sea legs.

“Fine,” she whispered. “I hear you.” She tapped the cap with two fingers, as if it could approve.

When she stepped back out, the mist had lifted its hand. The far bank existed again in softened charcoal lines. An old man in a flat cap worked at a windlass on the lock up beyond the footbridge, moving at the steady pace of someone who didn’t think pace had much to do with getting there. A kingfisher doubled itself on a low branch and then snapped into flight, a blue thought arrowing down the cut.

Ivy crossed to the bow and crouched to check the fender. She pressed her thumb into the line to feel how the damp had changed it. She told herself she was studying learning how wet weight alters the lay. That was true, but it was also not why she was here. She listened for the violin and pretended not to.

“Morning.”

She looked up. The voice came from the towpath. A woman in a quilted jacket stood with a dog that had opinions about everything and a nose that had already catalogued Ivy’s boots.

“Morning,” Ivy answered.

“You’re Ivan’s girl,” the woman said, not unkindly, as if relaying gossip to the day.

“Ivy,” she said, tasting the name in this place where her father had worn it into introductions for years. “Yes.”

“Good man,” the woman said. She glanced at the boat the way boat people do, her eyes skimming the lines, noticing the paint and rust without commenting on either. “You settling?”

“I’m trying,” Ivy said. Honesty left less room for embarrassment later when someone saw you fumble a line.

The woman’s mouth softened. “Canal will teach you if you listen.” She clicked her tongue for the dog. “And if you don’t, it will teach you louder.” She tilted her head downstream. “Mind him.”

“Him?”

“Fiddle on the roof.” A faint smile. “Plays like the inside of a storm. Talks like a man who’s packed in a hurry and left mostly what mattered.”

Ivy felt something in her face give away more than she wanted. “We spoke,” she said, then, because that sounded too big for what had happened, “Briefly.”

“Mm.” The woman’s eyes crinkled. “Theo,” she added, as if it were a name put down between them. “He’ll tell you it’s temporary. Everything is with him, until it isn’t.” She made a small click with her cheek, and the dog trotted on, nails ticking faintly. “Tea later if you want a real map of who’s where.”

“Thank you,” Ivy said, and meant it as something larger.

She stood very still for a minute after they left. The name hung in the air as if the fog liked the shape of it. Theo. She tried it in her head without inflection, then with annoyance, with the exasperated fondness she refused to admit might be part of it.

Don’t be ridiculous, she told herself, hard. You have lines to learn and a stove that smokes when the wind sulks. You do not have room for a man who treats roofs like stages.

But the name had already found where to sit.

She took the windlass from its hook in the well deck and weighed it in her hand. It was heavier than it looked, the kind of heft a tool has when it has taught a lot of lessons. She didn’t need it this morning, not really, but she wanted to feel right holding it. She slipped it back and took the boathook instead, working the pole along the hull to nudge a bit of floating weed away from the intake. The slight resistance was transmitted up the shaft into her wrist and forearm. The body learns, inch by inch.

“Your stern line’s fine.”

She flinched. He had covered the distance on the towpath like a thought that decided to be out loud. Theo stood with his case slung over one shoulder, hair pushed back by a hand that hadn’t decided what else to do. Up close, he was younger than the voice had made him out to be, and older around the eyes than his mouth admitted.

“I know,” she said, and hated that it sounded defensive even to herself.

“Do you?” He nodded at her palm. “You’ll wear grooves if you keep running line through it like that.”

The instinct to hide her hand came too late to be useful. She straightened instead. “It’s my line to groove.”

That earned the first genuine smile—quick, then gone. “Fair.” He shifted the case a little, hitching the strap higher. “Theo,” he added, as if some private cue had reminded him. “Since we’ve graduated to unsolicited advice.”

“Ivy,” she said. She didn’t offer her hand; line burns and coffee heat didn’t like handshakes. “Since we’ve graduated to giving it names.”

He tipped his head, amused. “You from here, Ivy-who-grew-up-on-that-boat?”

“From here enough,” she said. “From him more.” She let her gaze flick to the cap inside and away again.

He followed the look, of course. “Ivan,” he said, not as a question. “He gave me a tow once when my engine pretended it was French and went on strike.” His mouth twitched. “Wouldn’t take money. Said I could pay in quiet.”

“That sounds like him,” she said. The sudden swell of missing him surprised her. It rose like a wake, hitting the hull at a bad angle and rocking her breath.

Theo looked at her long enough to notice, without saying a word, that he had seen. “You warming the engine today?” he asked, as if the subject change were the shore she needed.

“Thinking about it,” she said. “She coughs like a smoker if I don’t prime right.”

“Show me your priming dance,” he said, stepping onto the gunwale with the point‑balanced grace of someone who’d done foolish things on narrow surfaces and survived them.

She opened her mouth to say she didn’t need help and found herself moving aside so he could see. In the engine bay, the smell was its own history: diesel and old, damp metal warmed and cooled, then warmed again. She checked the fuel, stroked the lift pump until the resistance changed, cracked the bleed screw, and watched the bubble give way to a clean line of fuel. Theo watched without comment, the quiet that lets someone keep their dignity.

“Try her,” he said.

She hit the starter. The cough came, then a brief stall, and then the engine found itself and settled into a rough idle that smoothed out as if the soot had untangled in the lines. Ivy couldn’t help but let a little smile slip over the fence of her caution.

Theo leaned an elbow against the cabin top and listened to the note. “That’s not bad,” he said.
“She’s telling you she’ll behave if you remember to greet her in her own language.”

“I barely speak mine,” she said, and then wished she hadn’t given him that much truth.

He didn’t treat it like a prize. He nodded at the tiller. “Take her a yard off and set back on your line. Feel the push and how much slack you’re holding. It’s a good lesson while the mist forgives ugly.”

Ivy hesitated. The canal had ways of making you pay for hubris, small coins dropped into a jar you didn’t know you’d been handing over. But the engine’s steady thrum and the way the boat seemed to wait for her decided it.

She untied the bow, coiled the line, and laid it where she could reach it again. At the stern, she eased the tiller and gave the engine the gentlest persuasion. The boat sighed away from the bank like a sleeper turning. Water folded between steel and earth. For a second, the stern swung more than she wanted. She breathed through it, brought the bow around, then let the engine idle her into new alignment. She felt it the moment when the line, the angle, and the weight of the boat all agreed on which way to be in this exact breath of wind.

“Now lay her on,” Theo said, not directing, just naming the thing she had already decided to do.
She stepped ashore with the stern line, the ground firm under the boot that didn’t quite trust it yet, and made a quick turn around the bollard. The line kissed her palm, familiar and not; she paid it out, took it in, and the boat drew itself alongside as neatly as if the canal had approved the plan.

She tied off, letting the last tug tell her it was good. The second she released the line, the wind offered a small opinion and pushed at the bow.

“Go,” Theo said, but she was already moving. She had the bow line coiled and was stepping forward when the dog from earlier reappeared and announced itself with authority. The dog’s lead angled the wrong way around the woman’s legs; Ivy adjusted without thinking, letting the dog, the wind, and the slight pull of the boat all be part of the equation. She caught the ring, looped, pulled, and felt the satisfying moment when everything in the system stopped arguing.

The woman lifted two fingers in salute. “Nicely done,” she said, and moved on.

Theo’s smile this time had both corners. “See? Belonging is mostly a conversation with things that don’t talk.”

Ivy tried not to enjoy that more than she should. “I’m fluent in kettles that sulk,” she said, because humor sometimes held the line better than pride.

He patted the violin case. “I’m fluent in instruments that lie.” He shifted as if to go, then hesitated. “There’s a session up by the bridge this evening. Pub with a name that’s a pun you’ll regret knowing. The usual suspects bring battered squeezeboxes and the occasional whistle that thinks it’s a flute. You should come.”

“Should I?” The caution came out dressed as curiosity.

“It’s good to let your hands learn other kinds of knots.” He shrugged. “Or ignore me. We can keep exchanging advice across three moorings like semaphore.”

She looked down at her palms, at the shiny new places where line had already begun to teach its alphabet. She wanted to say no, keep the morning’s friction honest, refuse the easy slope of community rolling toward her. She also wanted to sit in a room where instruments breathed and watch his face when he wasn’t pretending the roof was far enough from the ground.

“What time?” she asked, pretending she hadn’t decided before asking.

“Seven,” he said. “You’ll hear us even if you don’t want to.”

“Then I’ll come to hush you,” she said, because it felt safer to frame it as a favor she was doing the town.

He touched two fingers to the case, as if in something that could have been a salute, if he were a different kind of man, then stepped back to the towpath. “Bring your stubborn,” he said over his shoulder. “It’s the only currency they respect.”

He moved away with that loose-jointed balance musicians have when they stand before they’re ready to sit again. Ivy watched him until the fog tucked him into its pocket.

The engine ticked, cooling. She shut down, patted the lid as if the boat could feel gratitude, and went about the small work that makes a place yours: sweeping grit from the well deck, wiping condensation from the hatch runners, and pinching dead leaves from a pot of thyme that a previous owner had left behind. She added water to the kettle and set it back, then laughed at herself for the comfort of small repetitions.

She took the cap down and turned it in her hands. Ivan’s cap her father’s. The wool had held its shape around his habits, a slight curl in the brim where his hand constantly adjusted it. She set it on her own head and felt immediately like a child trying on a grown man’s shoes. She kept it anyway. The weight of it changed how she stood, and that was something like help.

Outside, the mist lifted another inch. Boats began to take on their own colors, edges reclaiming their grey. A man across the way folded a deck chair with the resigned efficiency of someone who had meant to read outside and had, instead, read the weather. Two teenage boys in hoodies threaded fishing line with the seriousness of surgeons. The dog with opinions introduced itself to a swan and then reconsidered a career in diplomacy.

Ivy poured coffee and carried it to the bow. She sat with her boots against the gunwale and let the mug warm the line burns on her palm. The canal did what the canal does: moved without seeming to. The muscles along her shoulders softened in increments until she noticed she could breathe to the bottom again.

You can do this, she thought, and the thought did not sound like an argument for once. You can learn the weight of things and when to let them have their way with you.

Later, she took a notebook from the galley drawer and made a list the way people make lists when they aren’t avoiding work, just arranging its approach: oil change schedule; chimney sweep; check stove line seal; fender line splice practice; ask about wood deliveries; find the man with the blue tank who comes on Tuesdays.

When the afternoon unwrinkled into a pale strip of light that treated the towpath like a suggestion of summer, she walked to the lock with her windlass to practise without admitting she was practising. The old man from the morning had gone; a young couple with matching impatience were bringing a rental boat through with more enthusiasm than aim. Ivy offered a gate paddle and a smile; the woman handed her a line as if it were a baton, and they were already on the same team. The water made its low thunder; the boat dropped with a mixture of grace and hurry that locks never fully approved of; a lad with headphones yelled “Cheers!” from the stern like a blessing.

By the time Ivy walked back, the day had acquired edges. The pub by the bridge had spilled chairs into the gap between pavement and canal; chalkboard letters promised hot pies and a level of wit the blackboard did not deliver. Music leaked already, someone tuning a guitar, someone else overconfident with a bodhrán.

She almost kept walking. Habit is a wall you lean on even when it’s in the wrong place. But then, at the periphery of sound, she heard the shape of Theo’s playing, not the notes exactly, but the way he pressed into them, and her feet did the kind thing they do when they forget to be afraid.
Inside, the air had its own weather, warm with bodies and steam, cool where the door let the canal step in for a look. The bar smelled like wood that had been spilled on since the year should have been painted above the door, and never was. A woman behind the counter slid a pint to a man with the reflexes to catch it one-handed; Ivy lifted a palm and ordered by pointing at a cider someone else was already drinking. The woman’s nod said: first time here, but you’ll do.

The session clustered by the window like a family reunion that had decided not to fight this time. A squeezebox wheezed a reluctant harmony; a guitar player eyed his calluses with suspicion; a whistle tried to remember if it was in D and then decided to be. Theo stood with his case open at his feet, the violin balanced in the crook of his arm, while he tightened the bow hair with the little ritual movements that were both practical and theatrical.

He saw her and did not draw attention to the fact of seeing. He just tipped his chin a fraction as if acknowledging that the air had included her all along and was now remembering to say so.
She found a leaning place against a pillar, the kind of spot that let you have a wall and a view. The first tune, once they saw it, was a polka that tried to run away from them and then circled back, tamed by laughter. Theo didn’t take the lead; he tucked himself into the weave and ran harmony lines that made the whole tune sound like it had a secret. When he did step forward, the pub listened without being instructed to. He played with that same freedom and precision she had heard on the roof, but something loosened in his shoulders when the room fed the sound back to him. It made his notes braver.

Ivy drank slowly and let her body remember what it is to be in a room and not be expected to hold it together for anyone but yourself. Snatches of conversation brushed past work stories half-cursed, a plan for a Sunday, someone who had finally fixed a pump that had bullied them for months. The room’s hum folded around the music the way water folds around the hull, holding it while letting it through.

During a pause, when the whistle player took too long to decide if he needed the loo more than he needed the next tune, Theo stepped into the gap beside her.

“You came to hush us,” he said, as if continuing a conversation started on a different page.

“I thought you’d need supervision,” she said, hearing how her voice had steadied since morning.

“The dog on the towpath gave a poor review.”

“He gives poor reviews to ducks,” Theo said. His mouth did that almost‑smile and then upgraded it. “You okay?” he asked, not as a pleasantry. He angled his head toward her line-marked palm.

“I will be,” she said. “If I stop trying to teach knots new tricks.”

“Let the old ones do their jobs,” he said. “They like it. They’ve been around longer than we have, and they’re less tired of themselves.”

“I’ll take that under advisement.” She looked at the violin. “You play like you’ve promised someone you wouldn’t be miserable and intend to keep the promise.”

He blinked, then laughed once, quietly. “That’s a specific accusation.”

“You can plead the fifth,” she said, then realized the idiom might not belong to this room and saw from the glint in his eyes that he’d caught her thinking it. “Or not.”

“Sometimes you make a deal with yourself,” he said, turning the bow screw a fraction as if it mattered to the words. “You say: you can be wreckage later, after the set. And then later turns into later again, and you keep the roof up between songs.”

She swallowed. The cider had gone warm; she hadn’t noticed. “I know that deal,” she said. “Different contractor. Same roof.”

They stood in the normal noise for a moment and let the thing they’d just said sit between them without needing to be tidied. Someone called a tune, the room agreed, and Theo nodded toward the circle as if the music had tugged his sleeve.

“You’ll be here awhile?” she asked, and hated that it sounded like hoping.

He looked at her, really looked, like you look at a map you’re not sure you should trust. “For now,” he said, and this time the words didn’t land like a door closing. They sounded like the kind of truth that leaves a window open.

He stepped back into the session; the reel they found had shoulders and a grin. Ivy felt the shape of the day shift very slightly, like a boat easing into deeper water where it can breathe.

When she walked back along the towpath later, the mist had given way to the night entirely. The canal wore the last light like a soft scarf; the first star pretended it wasn’t watching. She checked her lines by touch and by the little inventions of habit that were already starting to feel like hers. In the cabin, she left a space on the hook where the cap would go in the morning, a promise to herself she could keep.

Before she doused the lamp, she wrote in the notebook: Belonging is a conversation with things that don’t talk. Then, below it, smaller: Theo was loud. I didn’t hush them. She turned the page and drew a bad sketch of a violin leaning against a windlass and, without meaning to, wrote his name under it: Theo.

In the quiet that followed, the canal spoke in its sleep, a slight slap against steel, a murmured shift of line on a ring. Ivy lay on her side and let the sounds tally up into something like a future. She breathed with the boat until her breath and the hull and the water agreed. When sleep took her, she did not wake at the first bump. Or the second.