the ‘spanish inquisition’

the curious incident of the bacon butty...

... a broken tiller and a mid-life crisis

Willow Wren Hire Boat

The author returns to the Willow Wren Boatyard, Rugby, from where he first cast off in 1975 - for a twenty year adventure!

“We’ll go on the Canal Cruise – it sounds a bit different” came Mel’s monotone voice.

Still, I’m pleased that she and Alec, the Church’s youth leaders, have made a positive choice for a summer holiday with CYFA (the Church Youth Fellowship Association) – the main Church of England Youth organisation. I had already been a leader on a couple of CYFA holidays based at Independent school campuses, but I’d never really noticed the Canal Cruise before as a potential holiday option.

My next move is to contact Roger, the cruise leader - who is a vicar in a northern parish. I learn that the cruise consists of four seventy foot narrowboats, with room for 35 youngsters plus ten leaders – and he suggests that the two of us should meet up and take one of the boats out on the Oxford canal for an afternoon’s training.

I’m intrigued.

casting off

It’s a fresh and misty February afternoon when Roger and I step aboard ‘Crane’ for my two hours of training in narrowboat handling. Rays of weak winter sunshine filter through the chilly mist as Roger casts off the ropes, then jumps on the back and, with a chug, chug, chug from the diesel engine – the boat slowly slides forward through the water, under Roger’s careful supervision. He will take the boat along the short canal arm until it meets the main Oxford Canal. Turn left and you get to Coventry and the north, turn right and you get to Oxford and London. But not today.

After checking for other unsuspecting boats, we turn right onto the Oxford Canal, and head off for Hillmorton locks, a gentle hour’s cruising away – where we will turn the boat around and return to the boatyard. Once in mid-stream, Roger steps aside and hands me the tiller, my aim being to keep the boat in the middle of the canal where there is (normally) the deepest water. It actually seems pretty easy, until the bow (front) seems to be drifting towards the left bank. So to correct, I naturally push the tiller to the right – but that only makes the drift worse, and we end up close to the bank! So Roger takes over to deal with the immediate situation, and he soon gets us back into the middle:

“You see James, it’s the opposite of driving a car. In a car, if you want to go right, you steer to the right. But on narrowboat, if you want to move the boat to the right, you take the tiller to the left! And vice-versa. It’s completely counter-intuitive.”

So I work on this basic principle as I need to correct the boat’s natural drift almost all the time and full-time concentration is required. Not as easy as I thought! So I find myself always

working barge against canal bank

the aim is to keep the boat in the middle of the canal!

checking the line of the bow which is 70 feet in front of me. The next problem is when I realise that the bow takes quite a few seconds to respond to the tiller’s movements. And it’s easy to think that it’s not moving and so you correct with the tiller – too early – and then get confused as to whether you are going left or right. Then panic sets in! So basically, you need to shift the tiller – and then wait 10 seconds for the boat to respond. The longer the boat, the longer it takes to respond – and we’ve got 70 foot of it, pivoting in the middle! It’s another steep learning curve, but I’m enjoying it, as eventually we arrive at Hillmorton locks where Roger offers to turn the boat around in the ‘winding hole’. The way to do it, it seems, is to steer the front of the boat into the apex of the winding hole and keep the throttle going gently forward, with the tiller hard over, as the back turns in the opposite direction to the front. Then, with a few bursts on the reverse throttle, the boat drifts back to mid-canal and pointing in the opposite direction from where we came. Simples!

On the return journey, I now face the horror of seeing another boat coming towards us in mid-canal, so I need not to panic, but to get the steering steady and spot on, as I nudge Crane slightly to the right without hitting the bank. This I manage to do and the boats pass easily with several feet of water between us - relief! Roger now lets me steer the boat all the way back to the boatyard, where he assists with the throttle, in order let the boat gently slide to a stop right next to the Willow Wren wharf. Easy if you know how.

“Well done James - you picked that up really well. I’ll put you down as one of our eight skippers on the CYFA cruise. There will always be two of you on board to help each other.”

For me, a new world has just opened up, and I’m excited at the prospect of the forthcoming CYFA cruise, meeting up with Roger again, and with many new leaders and members to get to know - hopefully more affable than my own church’s youth leaders. Still, at least they are giving it a try - they might even enjoy it! But doubtless they are, like me, a bit apprehensive at starting out on new adventure - not knowing what lies ahead and what the outcome of their choice might be.

spanish inquisition

Amid the excitement of learning how to handle a 70’ narrowboat, I had conveniently forgotten about another aspect of the CYFA Canal Cruise, that Roger had asked me to take over from him: chaplaincy duties. Among other things, this included my ”getting alongside” the church-based youngsters on an individual basis, to help and guide them with their faith. I was rather taken aback by this because, for whatever reason - perhaps my own introversion - this did not sit comfortably with me.

I did not want to become, or be seen as, a sort of evangelical Spanish Inquisition!

Therefore in some reflective moments before the holiday itself, I found myself asking some pertinent questions:

In my new adventure, how would I fare?

How would my church’s youth group take to it?

Would the holiday be a one-off experience, never to be repeated?

Would my boat-handling skills be good enough?

But, more to the point, how would I cope - as the Spanish Inquisition? It felt more like a difficult place to be, rather than a soft cushion or a comfy chair! [1].

“Ha! Ha!” I think to myself. “But no-one expects the Spanish Inquisition” - least of all, me!

painting of boat on canal

1. This refers to the well known sketch in Monty Python’s Flying Circus. First shown on TV in 1970, now available on You Tube. It’s worth a watch! In point of fact, the phrase “No-one expects the Spanish Inquisition” was also a joke, as the Spanish Inquisition actually wrote ahead to its victims, to advise them of their impending arrival, and their need to be upholding orthodox morals and beliefs.

mooring lines 4

mooring lines

chapter four

The canal had its own way of waking a man. Theo was still learning it. He sat cross-legged on the roof of his narrowboat, feeling the cool damp seep through the denim of his jeans, the violin balanced against his knee. Around him, the world was undecided, half caught in the tatters of mist, half revealed by the sun’s gold intrusion. Every sound felt close here: the plink of water against steel, the caw of a crow staking territory, even the faint tick of his instrument’s peg as the morning chill shifted the wood.

He drew a slow breath. Mornings on the cut were too honest. No crowds, no distortion, no lights or amplifiers to dress up the truth. Out here, every note landed bare, stripped of decoration. If you played carelessly, the canal threw the carelessness back at you. If you played fiercely, the water remembered.

He lifted the violin into place, the chin rest cool against his jaw. The first stroke of the bow rasped a complaint rather than a greeting. He grimaced and tried again, dragging the tune forward, willing his fingers to find the shape. What came out was neither polished nor broken, but something in between, like a voice cracking on a confession. It was the kind of sound he had fled the city to uncover again, the one that lay beneath noise and applause. Yet hearing it made him restless.

Theo told himself he had wanted this: an escape from the band’s suffocating rehearsals, the dressing-room arguments that never quite erupted but never quite settled. But quiet was its own tyrant. It left him alone with the ache of wondering whether the fire inside him was dwindling. The last gig’s applause had sounded obligatory. Even his bandmates had stopped meeting his eyes.

The bow slipped, screeching against the string. Theo swore softly and lowered the instrument. He rubbed his face with the heel of his hand, hair falling into his eyes. You asked for space, he reminded himself. You begged for silence. Now here it is. So, what’s your excuse?

A crunch of footsteps on the towpath pulled him back. He turned his head, and there she was, the woman from the boat down the line. Yesterday, he had seen her fumbling with her mooring lines, tying and retying with the anxious energy of someone who wanted mastery but had only muscle memory to show for it. He had noticed the raw line burns on her palms, the way she stared at the water as though waiting for permission. Today, in the clear light, he noticed more.

Chestnut hair pulled hastily back, a jacket that seemed chosen for memory rather than warmth, boots that were still learning the towpath. She carried herself like someone who had inherited both a vessel and a burden.

Theo felt a flick of recognition, as unwelcome as it was undeniable. She carried weight in her shoulders the way he carried it in his chest. Different stories, same gravity.

“You always sneak up on people like that?” he asked, because humour was easier than truth.

Her apology came quickly, cheeks colouring. And when she said she had grown up on the boat, her chin lifted in that way people do when they’re daring you to contradict them. Theo studied her, letting the silence lengthen. The line marks. The stubborn glint. The grief she tried to swallow.

“Doesn’t mean you belong to it yet,” he said. The words had sharper edges than he intended, but the truth was like that. Boats didn’t reward sentiment. They respected patience, rhythm, and respect. Bloodlines didn’t make the knots hold.

Her eyes flashed, defensive, then shuttered. He almost regretted it. Almost. He had lived too long with false applause; better to give her honesty, even if it stung. When she asked if he belonged, he laughed quietly. Did he belong anywhere? Not really. Only to the violin, and even that relationship felt precarious these days.

“For now,” he said, and played again, letting the notes dismiss her and protect him both. Yet when she walked away, the sound of her footsteps lingered, a rhythm his bow tried to echo without meaning to. He watched her disappear into the mist and, against his better judgment, felt that he would notice her absence more than he should.

By midmorning, he was restless. The boat’s cabin was too small, the silence too loud. He slung the violin into its case and set out toward the village. The towpath underfoot had its own percussion: the crunch of gravel, the soft give of damp earth at the edges. Crows stalked the furrows of nearby fields, and the smell of tilled soil carried on the breeze.

Theo’s reflection in a window caught him as he passed. Tall and lean from a life of touring, shoulders slightly stooped from too many nights carrying gear and too many mornings waking up in borrowed beds. His hair dark, unkempt, brushing the collar of his jacket—framed a face that wore its fatigue honestly. Eyes a shade between green and grey, depending on the light, always seemed older than the grin he could still summon when he wanted to charm. He had the hands of a musician: long-fingered, calloused, restless even when idle.

The bridge appeared around a bend, stone arched and moss-flecked. Just beyond, the day widened into a market square. Theo paused at the edge, taking it in. Stalls spilled colour against the grey stone: oranges stacked in pyramids, jars of honey glowing like captured sunlight, loaves dusted white with flour. Voices tangled in the air, vendors calling prices, children laughing, the occasional bark of a dog tied to a post.

It should have been ordinary. To Theo, it felt theatrical, like a stage set designed to remind him what community looked like. He drifted among the stalls, hands in pockets, the violin case bumping against his leg. A baker offered him a heel of bread, warm from the oven; he bit into it and tasted both kindness and salt. At another stall, a woman sold coal by the sack, her arms corded with strength from lifting more than her share. Theo bought a small bag, the weight digging into his shoulder, grounding him.

At the far end of the square, music rose: another fiddle, but not his. Rough, rustic, joined by a squeezebox and a whistle. A group of locals had gathered, tapping feet, laughing when the rhythm wobbled and then righted itself.

Theo felt his chest tighten with recognition. The fiddler was an older man, late sixties, hair silver but still thick, posture steady despite the years. His violin bore the marks of long service: varnish worn pale where fingers had pressed thousands of tunes into it. He played with a simplicity that carried weight. No flash, no showmanship, just melody drawn clean, like a well-cut stone.

Theo lingered at the edge, listening. The old man’s bowing was economical, each stroke purposeful. It was music shaped by tradition, by nights in pubs and mornings at fairs, by repetition until the tunes lived in muscle and marrow. Theo’s own style had always been fire and edge, leaning on speed, bending notes until they broke. This man’s style was river water: steady, patient, inevitable.

Their eyes met briefly across the crowd. The old fiddler’s gaze was sharp but not unkind, as if measuring Theo without judgment. Theo inclined his head in acknowledgment, and the man answered with the barest nod before slipping back into the tune.

Theo’s fingers twitched at his side, itching for the bow. Yet he stayed still. This wasn’t his stage. Not yet. He let the melody wash over him, feeling both humbled and provoked, aware of how much he had to learn and how different their paths had been.

As the crowd clapped and coins rattled into a cap, Theo turned away. He had come here to disappear, not to measure himself against tradition. Yet he carried the sound with him down the row of stalls, a counterpoint to his own restless fire.

And through it all, he found his thoughts circling back to Ivy, the raw hands, the stubborn lift of her chin. Belonging was something they were both wrestling with, though in very different arenas. He adjusted the coal sack on his shoulder and walked back toward the canal, violin case knocking against his hip, the echo of two very different fiddles playing in his mind.

mooring lines 3

mooring lines

chapter three

The next morning arrived with an optimism that felt almost unfair. Sunlight burned the mist away in uneven patches, leaving the canal striped in gold and shadow. The roof of Ivy’s boat glistened with dew, droplets rolling into thin lines before vanishing at the gutter seams. Birds took the day as their cue to be loud gulls squabbling over scraps, blackbirds stitching their notes across hedgerows. The world was awake whether she was ready or not.

Ivy emerged from the cabin squinting, a mug in one hand, her father’s cap in the other. She hadn’t worn it yet, only carried it like an object that she still needed permission. She turned it over in her fingers, thumb tracing the faint curve where his hand had always adjusted the brim. Finally, she set it on her head. The weight was small, but it changed how she felt her spine stack itself. She looked out across the cut and whispered, “Well, here we are.”

A man passed on the towpath leading a pair of dogs that strained in opposite directions. He lifted a hand in greeting. Ivy managed to return the gesture without spilling her coffee, though her smile felt unpractised. People along the canal noticed newcomers. Some tested them with silence, others with conversation. Either way, the water carried word faster than gossip had any right to travel.

She busied herself with the small work of the boat, checking the fenders, tapping the deck boards with the toe of her boot to listen for any hollow places, coiling a line that didn’t strictly need coiling. Each action steadied her, though underneath it all ran the pulse of the memory from yesterday: the man with the violin, Theo, his music threading through the fog. The canal had introduced them, but only on its terms. She wasn’t sure she wanted more, and she wasn’t sure she had a choice.

The sound of hammering drifted down the row of moorings. Someone was making repairs, the metallic rhythm irregular but determined. She followed it with her eyes and saw an older man in overalls repairing a hatch cover on his boat. He looked up, caught her watching, and tipped his flat cap in acknowledgment. Ivy nodded back. A little exchange, small as a coin, but it felt like her first earned currency on the cut.
By mid-morning, she knew she couldn’t avoid the errand any longer. Supplies were thin; she needed coal for the stove, milk, bread, and things to turn the galley from storage into a kitchen. The nearest village was a mile along the towpath. She set out with a canvas bag over her shoulder, boots crunching the gravel in a rhythm that matched her nerves.

The path curved past fields furrowed from the last ploughing, crows stalking the ridges like inspectors. At a bend, the sound of music stopped her in her tracks. Violin again. Not distant this time, but immediate, close enough she could hear the rasp of bow on string, the breath between phrases. Theo sat on a low stone wall, the case open at his feet, the bow dancing quickly and sure across the strings.

She considered turning back before he noticed. But the choice evaporated when he raised his head, eyes finding hers with the same inevitability as yesterday. He finished the tune before speaking, the last note hanging like a question.

“Morning, line-burn,” he said, his mouth tugging into that half-smile.

Ivy felt heat rise in her face. “That’s not my name.”

“It could be,” he said easily, resting the violin against his knee. “Names come from somewhere.”

She adjusted the strap of her bag. “I’m Ivy.” She put the word down firmly, as if staking a claim to the ground.

“Theo,” he said, though she already knew. The woman with the dog had told her, but hearing it from him was different, like a secret repeated for the first time.

For a moment, neither spoke. Birds chattered in the hedge. A barge engine grumbled in the distance, its thrum carrying along the water. Theo tightened his bow hair, more ritual than necessity. “Off for supplies?”

She nodded. “Trying to make the boat liveable.”

“Coal yard’s just past the bridge. Grocer’s across from the pub. You’ll find both faster if you ask, but you’ll remember better if you get lost first.”

“Do you always give instructions that sound like riddles?” she asked.

He considered that, then grinned openly for the first time. “Only when they’re true.”

She surprised herself by smiling back. The wariness didn’t vanish, but it shifted, made room for curiosity. She adjusted her grip on the bag strap and moved to go. “Thanks,” she said.

Theo lifted the violin again, bow already coaxing a new melody. “See you on the water, Ivy.”

His music followed her down the path, weaving into the rhythm of her footsteps until she couldn’t tell if she was carrying it with her or if it was carrying her. By the time she reached the bridge, she realized she was humming along.

mooring lines 2

mooring lines

chapter two

Chapter 2

The mist came in low, dragging its soft belly across the canal until the water and sky were the same washed color. Sound felt smaller inside it—contained somehow—like the clink of a mooring ring or the far flap of a heron’s wings had been wrapped in wool. Paint on the cabin roof held beads of moisture the size of pinheads; when Ivy brushed past, they merged into tiny rivulets and slid to the gutter seam with a sound like a whisper.

Her fingers were raw from checking the stern line. She told herself she was only making sure, only learning the lines as she went, but the truth sat heavier in her chest. She had retied the cleat hitch three times before dawn, each time convinced the last attempt had been careless, or proud, or simply wrong. She did not want to drift away in the dark.

You keep checking the line because it’s something you can control, she thought, drawing the line through her palm until the fibers bit. You can’t tie a knot around grief.

She eased her weight back and tested the set. The line held, and the boat answered with a small creak of protest. That little sound steadied her. She looped the tail, tucked it neatly, and told herself to leave it be. The canal breathed against the hull, a slow exhale, as if the water itself found this morning tiring.

Inside, the kettle would be weeping under its lid by now. Tea might have been kinder than coffee to a nervous stomach, but coffee felt like armor, and she wanted armor. She stood with her hands against the cold cabin metal, letting the chill drain heat from her palms until the shaking she hadn’t admitted to slowed.

A sudden shout from two cyclists on the towpath broke the quiet. They arrowed past, leaving a wake of laughter and wet gravel crunch. Their voices unraveled into the fog almost as soon as they’d flung them, and the canal closed around the gap.

That was when she heard it. It reached her as a thread, almost too thin to notice, then caught and held notes slipping like dark fish just under the surface. Not some radio. Not the tinny leak of a phone. A violin.

The first phrase was a question with no words. The second sounded like weather coming in. A reel tried to start and thought better of it; the bow dragged a little too hard on the lower strings, then recovered into something that made the hair along Ivy’s arms lift. She turned her head toward the sound without deciding to. The towpath ran a gray ribbon beside the water; along it, the morning smelled of wet earth, diesel ghosts, and the sharp green of bruised grass. Ivy slid her hands into her jacket pockets and stepped down to the path, boots landing soft on packed grit. She paused at the end of her mooring just long enough to check the bow line, ridiculous, and then let the music pull her along.

She passed a boat painted a jaunty red with a kettle chiming faintly in its galley, then another with a garden of pots that someone had made, featuring serious rosemary, thyme, and a stubborn flower clinging to its greenery. A dog behind a curtain gave one dignified bark and let her go. The violin gathered itself as if it, too, were listening for her, and then the sound swelled.

He was perched on the roof of a black‑hulled narrowboat three moorings down, as casual as a gull on a rail. The bow faced into the slight flow, a thick line taking its fair share of weight around a metal bollard on the bank. He had one knee up, boot sole flat, the other leg stretched out. Long hair, dark and in need of a decision, fell forward until he shook it back with a twitch at the end of a phrase. The instrument sat with the ease of long practice in the corner of his jaw; the bow arm did not fuss, it drew.

Ivy stopped where the towpath narrowed a little, not yet close enough to feel like she’d made a choice. The music was not polished. There were places where muscle memory looked for a familiar road and found the towpath washed out. But there was something in the way he leaned into the low strings that made her chest answer. It felt like someone arguing with the morning and not minding if the morning argued back.

The bow stilled. It hovered for a beat, then he let it down onto his thigh with a sigh that didn’t belong to the fog. He lifted his head and met her eyes like a man glancing at a clock he already knew the time of.

“You always sneak up on people like that?” he asked. The voice had the scrape of late nights and the ease of someone who didn’t apologize for them.

Heat moved up her throat before she could tamp it down. “Sorry,” she said, hugging her arms tighter across her chest as if she could pull the apology back inside. “I didn’t mean to intrude. I just… heard you.”

One corner of his mouth crooked, but he didn’t commit to a smile. He slid the bow under the strings at the chin rest and laid the violin across his lap like a cat he didn’t entirely trust. “Not the worst crime.” His gaze ticked past her shoulder to the mist erasing the far bank. “You’ve got the look of someone new to this life.”

Her chin rose before her senses could catch up. “I grew up on that boat,” she said, tilting her head toward her mooring. It came out too fast, as if speed might be mistaken for certainty. He studied her for two seconds longer than was polite. His eyes weren’t unkind. They were doing a job, taking in the fidget at her cuffs, the raw line where line had run her palm, the careful way she held her weight like someone not yet fluent in the boat’s movement.

“Doesn’t mean you belong to it yet,” he said. Not cruel. Not even smug. Just a sentence carried forward by its own momentum. “Boats take more than blood to love you back.”
The words landed where she kept the soft things. She felt the little flinch, concealed mostly by the cold. He isn’t wrong. She loathed that thought immediately and then, annoyingly, admired him a fraction for saying the thing out loud.

“And you?” she asked, because retreat tasted worse than the question. “Do you belong here?”

He breathed a laugh through his nose. “For now.” He pushed his hair from his eyes with the back of his wrist and glanced down at the violin, as if it had given him a cue. “Until the road calls louder than the water.”

“Is that soon?” She surprised herself with the question. She hadn’t meant to invite more of him into her morning than the music already had.

His mouth tipped, that almost‑smile again, and didn’t answer directly. Instead, he set the instrument and bow in place with the quiet economy of habit. “Depends who’s listening,” he said, and let the bow drop to the strings.

The first note this time was clean as glass. It slid into a tune that remembered how to be a reel, then turned its face and became something older. He shifted on the roof with a tiny grimace as if his back had opinions. The boot heel started to mark time, not neat, not trying to be. Ivy stood there long enough to feel foolish for standing there. She made herself nod, the kind of nod that is both thanks and goodbye, and turned to go. The music followed anyway. It threaded the mist as if the fog were staves on a page only he could see.

By the time she reached her own stern, she wasn’t sure if she was bristling at his certainty or at her reaction to it. She rechecked the line, ridiculous, again, then stepped aboard and ducked into the cabin. The kettle had boiled itself into silence and now sulked. She poured anyway and watched the black ribbon curl through the mug. The galley window held a blurry rectangle of the world outside: grey water, ghost trees, the vague suggestion of him on the roof three boats down.

Boats take more than blood to love you back.

She set the mug down too hard. The clack of ceramic on wood sounded like a small admission. She pressed her palms to the counter and felt the planks under her feet transmit a slow knock as someone trod the towpath outside.

Her father’s cap still hung on the hook by the door. She had told herself not to wear it, not yet. It made his absence too literal. Sharing air with something that had held his sweat and his laughter felt like asking for trouble. But the sight of it steadied her, the way a horizon steadies your sea legs.

“Fine,” she whispered. “I hear you.” She tapped the cap with two fingers, as if it could approve.

When she stepped back out, the mist had lifted its hand. The far bank existed again in softened charcoal lines. An old man in a flat cap worked at a windlass on the lock up beyond the footbridge, moving at the steady pace of someone who didn’t think pace had much to do with getting there. A kingfisher doubled itself on a low branch and then snapped into flight, a blue thought arrowing down the cut.

Ivy crossed to the bow and crouched to check the fender. She pressed her thumb into the line to feel how the damp had changed it. She told herself she was studying learning how wet weight alters the lay. That was true, but it was also not why she was here. She listened for the violin and pretended not to.

“Morning.”

She looked up. The voice came from the towpath. A woman in a quilted jacket stood with a dog that had opinions about everything and a nose that had already catalogued Ivy’s boots.

“Morning,” Ivy answered.

“You’re Ivan’s girl,” the woman said, not unkindly, as if relaying gossip to the day.

“Ivy,” she said, tasting the name in this place where her father had worn it into introductions for years. “Yes.”

“Good man,” the woman said. She glanced at the boat the way boat people do, her eyes skimming the lines, noticing the paint and rust without commenting on either. “You settling?”

“I’m trying,” Ivy said. Honesty left less room for embarrassment later when someone saw you fumble a line.

The woman’s mouth softened. “Canal will teach you if you listen.” She clicked her tongue for the dog. “And if you don’t, it will teach you louder.” She tilted her head downstream. “Mind him.”

“Him?”

“Fiddle on the roof.” A faint smile. “Plays like the inside of a storm. Talks like a man who’s packed in a hurry and left mostly what mattered.”

Ivy felt something in her face give away more than she wanted. “We spoke,” she said, then, because that sounded too big for what had happened, “Briefly.”

“Mm.” The woman’s eyes crinkled. “Theo,” she added, as if it were a name put down between them. “He’ll tell you it’s temporary. Everything is with him, until it isn’t.” She made a small click with her cheek, and the dog trotted on, nails ticking faintly. “Tea later if you want a real map of who’s where.”

“Thank you,” Ivy said, and meant it as something larger.

She stood very still for a minute after they left. The name hung in the air as if the fog liked the shape of it. Theo. She tried it in her head without inflection, then with annoyance, with the exasperated fondness she refused to admit might be part of it.

Don’t be ridiculous, she told herself, hard. You have lines to learn and a stove that smokes when the wind sulks. You do not have room for a man who treats roofs like stages.

But the name had already found where to sit.

She took the windlass from its hook in the well deck and weighed it in her hand. It was heavier than it looked, the kind of heft a tool has when it has taught a lot of lessons. She didn’t need it this morning, not really, but she wanted to feel right holding it. She slipped it back and took the boathook instead, working the pole along the hull to nudge a bit of floating weed away from the intake. The slight resistance was transmitted up the shaft into her wrist and forearm. The body learns, inch by inch.

“Your stern line’s fine.”

She flinched. He had covered the distance on the towpath like a thought that decided to be out loud. Theo stood with his case slung over one shoulder, hair pushed back by a hand that hadn’t decided what else to do. Up close, he was younger than the voice had made him out to be, and older around the eyes than his mouth admitted.

“I know,” she said, and hated that it sounded defensive even to herself.

“Do you?” He nodded at her palm. “You’ll wear grooves if you keep running line through it like that.”

The instinct to hide her hand came too late to be useful. She straightened instead. “It’s my line to groove.”

That earned the first genuine smile—quick, then gone. “Fair.” He shifted the case a little, hitching the strap higher. “Theo,” he added, as if some private cue had reminded him. “Since we’ve graduated to unsolicited advice.”

“Ivy,” she said. She didn’t offer her hand; line burns and coffee heat didn’t like handshakes. “Since we’ve graduated to giving it names.”

He tipped his head, amused. “You from here, Ivy-who-grew-up-on-that-boat?”

“From here enough,” she said. “From him more.” She let her gaze flick to the cap inside and away again.

He followed the look, of course. “Ivan,” he said, not as a question. “He gave me a tow once when my engine pretended it was French and went on strike.” His mouth twitched. “Wouldn’t take money. Said I could pay in quiet.”

“That sounds like him,” she said. The sudden swell of missing him surprised her. It rose like a wake, hitting the hull at a bad angle and rocking her breath.

Theo looked at her long enough to notice, without saying a word, that he had seen. “You warming the engine today?” he asked, as if the subject change were the shore she needed.

“Thinking about it,” she said. “She coughs like a smoker if I don’t prime right.”

“Show me your priming dance,” he said, stepping onto the gunwale with the point‑balanced grace of someone who’d done foolish things on narrow surfaces and survived them.

She opened her mouth to say she didn’t need help and found herself moving aside so he could see. In the engine bay, the smell was its own history: diesel and old, damp metal warmed and cooled, then warmed again. She checked the fuel, stroked the lift pump until the resistance changed, cracked the bleed screw, and watched the bubble give way to a clean line of fuel. Theo watched without comment, the quiet that lets someone keep their dignity.

“Try her,” he said.

She hit the starter. The cough came, then a brief stall, and then the engine found itself and settled into a rough idle that smoothed out as if the soot had untangled in the lines. Ivy couldn’t help but let a little smile slip over the fence of her caution.

Theo leaned an elbow against the cabin top and listened to the note. “That’s not bad,” he said.
“She’s telling you she’ll behave if you remember to greet her in her own language.”

“I barely speak mine,” she said, and then wished she hadn’t given him that much truth.

He didn’t treat it like a prize. He nodded at the tiller. “Take her a yard off and set back on your line. Feel the push and how much slack you’re holding. It’s a good lesson while the mist forgives ugly.”

Ivy hesitated. The canal had ways of making you pay for hubris, small coins dropped into a jar you didn’t know you’d been handing over. But the engine’s steady thrum and the way the boat seemed to wait for her decided it.

She untied the bow, coiled the line, and laid it where she could reach it again. At the stern, she eased the tiller and gave the engine the gentlest persuasion. The boat sighed away from the bank like a sleeper turning. Water folded between steel and earth. For a second, the stern swung more than she wanted. She breathed through it, brought the bow around, then let the engine idle her into new alignment. She felt it the moment when the line, the angle, and the weight of the boat all agreed on which way to be in this exact breath of wind.

“Now lay her on,” Theo said, not directing, just naming the thing she had already decided to do.
She stepped ashore with the stern line, the ground firm under the boot that didn’t quite trust it yet, and made a quick turn around the bollard. The line kissed her palm, familiar and not; she paid it out, took it in, and the boat drew itself alongside as neatly as if the canal had approved the plan.

She tied off, letting the last tug tell her it was good. The second she released the line, the wind offered a small opinion and pushed at the bow.

“Go,” Theo said, but she was already moving. She had the bow line coiled and was stepping forward when the dog from earlier reappeared and announced itself with authority. The dog’s lead angled the wrong way around the woman’s legs; Ivy adjusted without thinking, letting the dog, the wind, and the slight pull of the boat all be part of the equation. She caught the ring, looped, pulled, and felt the satisfying moment when everything in the system stopped arguing.

The woman lifted two fingers in salute. “Nicely done,” she said, and moved on.

Theo’s smile this time had both corners. “See? Belonging is mostly a conversation with things that don’t talk.”

Ivy tried not to enjoy that more than she should. “I’m fluent in kettles that sulk,” she said, because humor sometimes held the line better than pride.

He patted the violin case. “I’m fluent in instruments that lie.” He shifted as if to go, then hesitated. “There’s a session up by the bridge this evening. Pub with a name that’s a pun you’ll regret knowing. The usual suspects bring battered squeezeboxes and the occasional whistle that thinks it’s a flute. You should come.”

“Should I?” The caution came out dressed as curiosity.

“It’s good to let your hands learn other kinds of knots.” He shrugged. “Or ignore me. We can keep exchanging advice across three moorings like semaphore.”

She looked down at her palms, at the shiny new places where line had already begun to teach its alphabet. She wanted to say no, keep the morning’s friction honest, refuse the easy slope of community rolling toward her. She also wanted to sit in a room where instruments breathed and watch his face when he wasn’t pretending the roof was far enough from the ground.

“What time?” she asked, pretending she hadn’t decided before asking.

“Seven,” he said. “You’ll hear us even if you don’t want to.”

“Then I’ll come to hush you,” she said, because it felt safer to frame it as a favor she was doing the town.

He touched two fingers to the case, as if in something that could have been a salute, if he were a different kind of man, then stepped back to the towpath. “Bring your stubborn,” he said over his shoulder. “It’s the only currency they respect.”

He moved away with that loose-jointed balance musicians have when they stand before they’re ready to sit again. Ivy watched him until the fog tucked him into its pocket.

The engine ticked, cooling. She shut down, patted the lid as if the boat could feel gratitude, and went about the small work that makes a place yours: sweeping grit from the well deck, wiping condensation from the hatch runners, and pinching dead leaves from a pot of thyme that a previous owner had left behind. She added water to the kettle and set it back, then laughed at herself for the comfort of small repetitions.

She took the cap down and turned it in her hands. Ivan’s cap her father’s. The wool had held its shape around his habits, a slight curl in the brim where his hand constantly adjusted it. She set it on her own head and felt immediately like a child trying on a grown man’s shoes. She kept it anyway. The weight of it changed how she stood, and that was something like help.

Outside, the mist lifted another inch. Boats began to take on their own colors, edges reclaiming their grey. A man across the way folded a deck chair with the resigned efficiency of someone who had meant to read outside and had, instead, read the weather. Two teenage boys in hoodies threaded fishing line with the seriousness of surgeons. The dog with opinions introduced itself to a swan and then reconsidered a career in diplomacy.

Ivy poured coffee and carried it to the bow. She sat with her boots against the gunwale and let the mug warm the line burns on her palm. The canal did what the canal does: moved without seeming to. The muscles along her shoulders softened in increments until she noticed she could breathe to the bottom again.

You can do this, she thought, and the thought did not sound like an argument for once. You can learn the weight of things and when to let them have their way with you.

Later, she took a notebook from the galley drawer and made a list the way people make lists when they aren’t avoiding work, just arranging its approach: oil change schedule; chimney sweep; check stove line seal; fender line splice practice; ask about wood deliveries; find the man with the blue tank who comes on Tuesdays.

When the afternoon unwrinkled into a pale strip of light that treated the towpath like a suggestion of summer, she walked to the lock with her windlass to practise without admitting she was practising. The old man from the morning had gone; a young couple with matching impatience were bringing a rental boat through with more enthusiasm than aim. Ivy offered a gate paddle and a smile; the woman handed her a line as if it were a baton, and they were already on the same team. The water made its low thunder; the boat dropped with a mixture of grace and hurry that locks never fully approved of; a lad with headphones yelled “Cheers!” from the stern like a blessing.

By the time Ivy walked back, the day had acquired edges. The pub by the bridge had spilled chairs into the gap between pavement and canal; chalkboard letters promised hot pies and a level of wit the blackboard did not deliver. Music leaked already, someone tuning a guitar, someone else overconfident with a bodhrán.

She almost kept walking. Habit is a wall you lean on even when it’s in the wrong place. But then, at the periphery of sound, she heard the shape of Theo’s playing, not the notes exactly, but the way he pressed into them, and her feet did the kind thing they do when they forget to be afraid.
Inside, the air had its own weather, warm with bodies and steam, cool where the door let the canal step in for a look. The bar smelled like wood that had been spilled on since the year should have been painted above the door, and never was. A woman behind the counter slid a pint to a man with the reflexes to catch it one-handed; Ivy lifted a palm and ordered by pointing at a cider someone else was already drinking. The woman’s nod said: first time here, but you’ll do.

The session clustered by the window like a family reunion that had decided not to fight this time. A squeezebox wheezed a reluctant harmony; a guitar player eyed his calluses with suspicion; a whistle tried to remember if it was in D and then decided to be. Theo stood with his case open at his feet, the violin balanced in the crook of his arm, while he tightened the bow hair with the little ritual movements that were both practical and theatrical.

He saw her and did not draw attention to the fact of seeing. He just tipped his chin a fraction as if acknowledging that the air had included her all along and was now remembering to say so.
She found a leaning place against a pillar, the kind of spot that let you have a wall and a view. The first tune, once they saw it, was a polka that tried to run away from them and then circled back, tamed by laughter. Theo didn’t take the lead; he tucked himself into the weave and ran harmony lines that made the whole tune sound like it had a secret. When he did step forward, the pub listened without being instructed to. He played with that same freedom and precision she had heard on the roof, but something loosened in his shoulders when the room fed the sound back to him. It made his notes braver.

Ivy drank slowly and let her body remember what it is to be in a room and not be expected to hold it together for anyone but yourself. Snatches of conversation brushed past work stories half-cursed, a plan for a Sunday, someone who had finally fixed a pump that had bullied them for months. The room’s hum folded around the music the way water folds around the hull, holding it while letting it through.

During a pause, when the whistle player took too long to decide if he needed the loo more than he needed the next tune, Theo stepped into the gap beside her.

“You came to hush us,” he said, as if continuing a conversation started on a different page.

“I thought you’d need supervision,” she said, hearing how her voice had steadied since morning.

“The dog on the towpath gave a poor review.”

“He gives poor reviews to ducks,” Theo said. His mouth did that almost‑smile and then upgraded it. “You okay?” he asked, not as a pleasantry. He angled his head toward her line-marked palm.

“I will be,” she said. “If I stop trying to teach knots new tricks.”

“Let the old ones do their jobs,” he said. “They like it. They’ve been around longer than we have, and they’re less tired of themselves.”

“I’ll take that under advisement.” She looked at the violin. “You play like you’ve promised someone you wouldn’t be miserable and intend to keep the promise.”

He blinked, then laughed once, quietly. “That’s a specific accusation.”

“You can plead the fifth,” she said, then realized the idiom might not belong to this room and saw from the glint in his eyes that he’d caught her thinking it. “Or not.”

“Sometimes you make a deal with yourself,” he said, turning the bow screw a fraction as if it mattered to the words. “You say: you can be wreckage later, after the set. And then later turns into later again, and you keep the roof up between songs.”

She swallowed. The cider had gone warm; she hadn’t noticed. “I know that deal,” she said. “Different contractor. Same roof.”

They stood in the normal noise for a moment and let the thing they’d just said sit between them without needing to be tidied. Someone called a tune, the room agreed, and Theo nodded toward the circle as if the music had tugged his sleeve.

“You’ll be here awhile?” she asked, and hated that it sounded like hoping.

He looked at her, really looked, like you look at a map you’re not sure you should trust. “For now,” he said, and this time the words didn’t land like a door closing. They sounded like the kind of truth that leaves a window open.

He stepped back into the session; the reel they found had shoulders and a grin. Ivy felt the shape of the day shift very slightly, like a boat easing into deeper water where it can breathe.

When she walked back along the towpath later, the mist had given way to the night entirely. The canal wore the last light like a soft scarf; the first star pretended it wasn’t watching. She checked her lines by touch and by the little inventions of habit that were already starting to feel like hers. In the cabin, she left a space on the hook where the cap would go in the morning, a promise to herself she could keep.

Before she doused the lamp, she wrote in the notebook: Belonging is a conversation with things that don’t talk. Then, below it, smaller: Theo was loud. I didn’t hush them. She turned the page and drew a bad sketch of a violin leaning against a windlass and, without meaning to, wrote his name under it: Theo.

In the quiet that followed, the canal spoke in its sleep, a slight slap against steel, a murmured shift of line on a ring. Ivy lay on her side and let the sounds tally up into something like a future. She breathed with the boat until her breath and the hull and the water agreed. When sleep took her, she did not wake at the first bump. Or the second.

james adams

author of the season - winter 2025 - 6

james adams

the curious incident of the bacon butty a broken tiller and a mid-life crisis

James Adams was born in Coventry and educated at King Henry VIII School, 1957-1968. His teenage years were marked by unenthusiastic school cross-country running and his enthusiastic support for Coventry City F.C. where he held a season-ticket for eight years.

After leaving Coventry he gained a BA at the University of Durham (American Studies & Theology) and an MA at the University of Bristol (Theology). He became an Anglican minister and served in a Church of England parish for three years. Thereafter, he went into teaching - firstly for Religious Studies but later retraining in the Social sciences, becoming Head of Religious  and Social Studies - which comprised Psychology, Sociology and the Philosophy of Religion, all at ‘A’ level, in two sixth form centres over twenty years.

In 2021 he became a published author, with his psychological football memoir 'Attached to Coventry City' (Pitch Publishing) which was followed up in 2022 with 'Passionate - the Psychology of a Passionate Life' (Austin Macauley). 

James Adams

James Adams

coventry city book by James Adams

Attached to Coventry City by James Adams

passionate - book by James Adams

Passionate - the psychology of a passionate life - by James Adams

When not writing books James spends his time reading, trying to understand American politics, listening to popular music, supporting Coventry City, attending modern jive dances and  keeping fit. He also enjoys travel both at home and abroad.

James has been married twice and has two children and three grand-children. The subject of greatest interest to him is Attachment Theory and how an understanding of this can contribute significantly to the development of  positive mental health.

The Curious Incident of the Bacon Sandwich, a Broken Tiller, and a Mid-life Crisis.”

James Adams' new book brings to life two decades of his canal adventures from 1975-95 with youth groups and friends, aboard 30 traditional narrowboats, along 30 different canals and covering about 3,000 ‘lock-miles’ of Britain’s canal system.

As well as describing the delights and dangers of boat-handling in fair weather and foul, he also reflects upon various issues and crises arising from his relationships with his crew, and within himself. Such reflections touch on practical, philosophical, theological and psychological issues, with humour not far from any dodgy lock or long, wet, tunnel.

Underneath all the youth-filled adventures however, is the author’s own search for the truth about himself, with his final destination being far from the original moorings from where he first cast off the ropes. At the end of the book are 15 chapter-related therapeutic exercises for those who want to search for their own truth about and within themselves.

So hop on board and start the engine, for canal cruise journeys and reflections that you are unlikely to forget!

James Adams

In 1975 James was introduced to Britain’s canals, and for the next two decades he organised and led 21 summer canal cruises for youth groups and friends – from the Leeds and Liverpool canal in the Pennines to the Basingstoke canal in the south-east, and most points in between. The story of his adventures from 1975-95 are told in his new book “The Curious Incident of the Bacon Sandwich, a Broken Tiller, and a Mid-life Crisis.”  [in preparation]. 

James' latest book is not yet available to buy, but you will be able to see an adaptation from chapter 8 'Sunshine and Shadows' here very shortly. His other books are available in Waterstones. James has his own website, and you can contact him by email

rediscovering the past afloat

rediscovering the past afloat

the story of heritage harbours

There’s something magical about harbours. Even if you’re not a boat person—or even a water person—it’s hard not to be charmed by the bustle, the ropes creaking against bollards, and the gentle lapping of water.

At its core, the Heritage Harbour concept is a grassroots effort to recognise and protect historically significant inland and coastal harbours that still carry the marks of Britain’s maritime past. It’s about giving these places a new life—not as static museum pieces, but as living, working ports where traditional boats and trades are not only remembered but celebrated and continued. In short: they’re not just relics— they’re alive.

The Birth of a Concept

The idea of Heritage Harbours in the UK is relatively new, but it borrows heavily from a successful movement in the Netherlands and elsewhere in Europe, where dozens of harbours have been designated and protected for their cultural and maritime value. Inspired by this model, several UK organisations began looking at how to do something similar here.

Enter National Historic Ships UK (NHS-UK), Historic England and the Maritime Heritage Trust—all key players who got behind the wheel, so to speak. Together, they created a framework to help identify and promote harbours that still retain their historic character and can serve as hubs for heritage vessels and maritime skills.

So far, this effort has been championed largely by local communities and passionate maritime enthusiasts who want to see their local waterways thrive again—culturally, socially, and even economically.

What Makes a Heritage Harbour?

A Heritage Harbour isn’t just any picturesque quay. It needs to have retained physical features from its industrial or trading heyday—things like original bollards, cranes, warehouses, and slipways. But it's also about the stories that come with them. These places are selected for their ability to support historic boats and traditional skills.

There’s no single, top-down government scheme rubber-stamping harbours as “Heritage,” either. This is very much a community-led designation. Once a harbour group believes their site f its the bill, they can work with the relevant national bodies to gain recognition and promote their status.

Shardlow: An inland example

Shardlow Inland Port Festival

Shardlow is a small village in Derbyshire that, to the untrained eye, might look like just another sleepy waterside spot. But take a closer look and you’ll find one of the finest surviving examples of an 18th-century inland port.

The village blossomed in the late 1700s after the opening of the Trent and Mersey Canal - a vital artery during the Industrial Revolution. Shardlow was perfectly placed to become a major point between the canal system and river traffic. At its peak, it had dozens of warehouses, boatyards, inns, stables, and other infrastructure to support the bustling trade of goods ranging from coal and salt to pottery and timber.

Fast-forward to today, and much of that infrastructure still exists. There are old warehouses now converted into homes and pubs, restored toll houses, and surviving workshops. It’s not hard to picture horses clopping along the towpath, or barges being loaded by hand.

This level of preservation helped Shardlow become one of the first locations to be proposed as a Heritage Harbour in the UK. Local heritage groups have worked to document the site’s history and ensure its buildings and water spaces are protected and—importantly—used.

Shardlow is a working example of how heritage can coexist with leisure boating and modern life. Historic narrowboats still visit, and there are regular events that bring traditional skills, like rope making and boat painting, to life for the public.

More Than Just Nostalgia

So why does this all matter?

Britain’s waterways played a huge part in the Industrial Revolution, helping to shape towns, economies, and social structures. But as those industries faded, so too did many of the ports and harbours that once buzzed with activity. The Heritage Harbours concept is about recognising that value—not just historically, but culturally and economically.

There’s a growing recognition that places like Shardlow can boost local tourism, support traditional trades, and provide hands-on learning opportunities for future generations. And with sustainability and localism coming to the fore, these kinds of community-driven heritage initiatives are striking a real chord.

The Road (or Canal) Ahead

Sailing Barge Snark in Exeter Heritage Harbour

As of now, the Heritage Harbours network in the UK is still growing, we welcomed two more locations during Heritage Open Days 2024 which has taken us up to fourteen in total: Gloucester, Ramsgate, Bideford, Bristol, Buckler’s Hard, Chester, Exeter, Faversham and Oare Creeks, Ipswich, Maldon and Heybridge, Sandwich, Shardlow, Stourport, and Wells next the Sea. Each one brings its own unique character and challenges, but they all share the same mission: to keep Britain’s maritime heritage afloat—literally.

So next time you’re wandering along a canal towpath or sipping a pint outside a converted warehouse pub, take a moment to imagine what life might’ve looked like two hundred years ago. You might just find you’re walking through a living piece of history—and thanks to the Heritage Harbours movement, that history has never felt more alive.

Hannah Hurford

Maritime Heritage Trust logo

Hannah Hurford is a Trustee of the Maritime Heritage Trust and is a Heritage Officer for Exeter's Heritage Harbour. Hannah is also a Director for Lynher Barge CIC and she runs a traditional sailing and maritime heritage podcast called the Off Watch Podcast.

Facebook & Instagram: @offwatchpod

Website: https://www.offwatchpodcast.co.uk/

national historic ships photography competition

national historic ships

UK photography competition 2025

The always popular National Historic Ships UK Photography Competition is back for a 16thyear.

The theme is “Craft & Crew” and there are some fantastic prizes to be won, as well as the chance to be featured in the 2026 Calendar and accompanying exhibition at Historic Dockyard Chatham.

NHS-UK is hoping for entries which reflect the wide variety of historic craft, big and small, afloat and ashore. Photographers may also interpret the theme by capturing the traditional techniques and skills essential for maintenance or highlighting the people that operate and care for these wonderful vessels.

Visit the Events Page at: www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/events to discover some of the many maritime and inland waterways events being hosted this year. In a country threaded with navigable waterways, where one is never more than 70 miles from the coast, there are many opportunities to explore this year’s theme and take a winning photograph!

The competition is open from 1stMay –31stAugust 2025.

Read more and enter: www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/photocomp

Editor's note: The header photograph is by Kev Maslin

the vine, kinver

our pub of the season - spring 2025

the vine in kinver

As boaters, we know the satisfaction of finding a really good canal side pub, as they are few and far between these days. The Vine in Kinver is an excellent example of a pub boaters will feel comfortable in. It is a place where everyone is welcomed, whether you are popping in for a quick drink or expecting a three course meal. And the staff are amongst the most courteous we have come across.

the Vine at Kinver

outdoor terrace at the Vine in Kinver

Background

The Vine was opened in 1863 in competition with the Lock Inn that once stood opposite. Originally two converted cottages, it extended into adjacent cottages over the years and most internal walls were removed in 1980. It is now a one-roomed pub, it retains distinct areas on different levels, with the restaurant overlooking Kinver lock on the Staffs & Worcs canal.

The Vine is very proud to receive the prestigious cask marque award for serving the perfect pint of cask ale. We also received a 5 star award for Beer and Cellar Hygiene.

the pizza oven at the Vine

garden at the Vine in Kinver

Situated on Kinver Lock, the Vine boasts a wonderful outdoor terrace where you can sit and watch the boats come and go through the lock. You can eat out on the terrace when the weather is favourable, and there is also a very large garden where tasty Pizzas cooked in the Vine's outdoor Pizza oven are served.

the dining area at the Vine in Kinver

the bar at the Vine in Kinver

Venture indoors, and you will find a spacious bar with a separate large and comfortable dining area. If you are eating, you have the choice of the dining room or the bar areas - drinkers and eaters mix very easily together. In the colder weather there is a welcoming open fire at one end of the bar with people like us naturally homing in for a warm!

John and Sam Manager and chef at the Vine in Kinver

bar staff at the Vine in Kinver

You will find the staff at the Vine generous in service and friendliness, with nothing being too much trouble. The pub is managed by John Sullivan, ably assisted by Ben Baker and the rest of the team. John's wife, Sam, is head chef - and what a chef she is, always prepared to try out new ideas, and producing some truly wonderful dishes. Her Sunday roasts are visual as well as palatable feasts.

Since John and Sam have taken over, with their loyal team behind them, they have brought new life to the Vine. John and Sam are full of ideas: apart from the regular festive events, they have introduced highly successful Themed weekends (Thursdays to Saturdays). In February this year they held an American weekend with hot-dogs and burgers being served alongside the main menu, and more recently, Sam became proficient at Greek cuisine!

lunch at the Vine in Kinver

George Robbins Quiz Master at the Vine

What's On

The Vine now has regular live music, with a local band 'The Vibe' appearing in April. And dare we mention our own Gerry Goode (the Bridgnorth Balladeer) who is also a frequent performer?

George Robbins, who was a regular behind the bar and in the kitchen, has now moved on, but comes back every other Tuesday to perform as Quiz Master for a fun quiz night which is growing steadily in popularity. A bargain at only £1 per player...

A new dart board has been installed, which is attracting a deal of attention. Apart from this, there are no televisions blaring, and while there is sometimes background music, it sits comfortably in the background.

Summary

Local enthusiasm for the pub has increased dramatically, and visitors come and leave with only compliments for the food, the drink, the friendliness, and the service.

The Vine is well worth the short walk from the visitor moorings which extend a good way beneath the lock, and also above the lock after the stretch of permanent moorings.

John & Sam Sullivan outside the Vine at Kinver

Sam & John welcome everyone to The Vine in Kinver: boaters, cyclists, locals, walkers - even dogs and children. The food is excellent, as is the range of beers, lagers, ciders and spirits. They also take care to have some zero alcohol beverages available. It's the friendliness of the staff and their commitment to good service which hits you. We can't recommend it enough.

You can see what is happening at the Vine by following them on Facebook or you could contact a member of the team by phoning 01384 936919.

annie murray

author of the season - winter 2024-5

annie murray

lives on the cut - two birmingham stories

A fact that is often trotted out about Birmingham is that is has more canals by the mile than Venice. That may be the case, but either way, you can’t miss the ‘cut’ winding and criss-crossing through the city, even if the traffic on it is very different now from that of its busy industrial heyday.

When I lived in Selly Oak we were a stone’s throw from the Worcester and Birmingham canal, starting on its 30 mile west-bound journey at Gas Street Basin. I walked along it often. By the time I had written five other novels set in the city, I decided it was time to take a closer look at the cut and the life that had been on it. So I began on my first book, The Narrowboat Girl.

Annie Murray - the Narrowboat Girl

Water Gypsies, by Annie Murray

It was fascinating. All that information from Inland Waterways, the maps and accounts of life as it was lived when the boats were in and out of Brum: ‘joeys,’ the open day boats as they are called in the region and narrowboats often owned or worked for companies such as Fellows, Morton and Clayton by families, the ‘Number Ones’, seemingly head of the hierarchy of the culture, whose boats were their homes.

All these boats, pulled by horses in the early days were hauling cargoes – coal, especially coal – along these veins of water to wherever they were required, to wharfs, where the labour began of shovelling it in and out for all the surrounding factories…

Someone pointed me to Sheila Stewart’s Ramblin Rose, for which she had interviewed a collection of canal women who were by then forced ‘on the bank’ by the demise of canal traffic. She paints a vivid , though sad , portrait of life on the cut for women and children. Giving birth on cramped boats, bringing up bigger families than could possibly fit in a nine foot by five cabin. Extraordinary people.

Then the advent on the engine on the boats, the way this made life harder very often, because you don't have to rest and feed an engine, you can just keep going well into the night. And you might well miss your horse’s character and warm, grassy breath.

So often writing about Birmingham’s history – surely a city where things have always changed at a rap faster than anywhere else in the country – I am looking for crumbs. A grain of personal information here, a titbit of detail there. Many of the things I write about were not undertaken by people who had the energy or inclination to write about them. But information does come, bit by bit.

The Narrowboat Girl, set in the 1930s about a young girl, Mary Ann, who runs away and finds a new life on the water, started to take shape. She joins this life of racing to ‘get on’, the battles to get through the locks in order to deliver somewhere and get back, the delight of moving out of the city and on to a canal like the Oxford, the beauty of the seasons.

While I was working on these books I met a man called Graham Jones who had been born on the cut but his family, like so many others in the 50s, found their way of life coming to an end. He kindly gave me photographs of his parents Clara and David Jones and grandmother Ellen Beechy to show me how their life had been before. I have treasured them ever since.

narrowboat girl

old lady at tiller

These three photos, given to Annie Murray by Graham Jones who was born on a boat. They show his mother Ellen Jones (left), his grandmother Ellen Beechy and his father David Jones.

boater with horse

I had only intended to write one book. But two things made me think about another novel to follow on. One was the Inland Waterways account Idle Women, about the women who joined this way of life as volunteers in World War Two. The other was that one of my daughters was ill – for a long time. We decided as a family to go on holiday on the canals so that she could be with us and rest as much as she needed. We started at Rugby, heading north east to Minworth and round into Birmingham. And finally I was actually handling a sixty-foot narrowboat, albeit one much more luxuriously appointed than those of the Number Ones.

The idea that the women who had spent their lives on the cut, or at least married into it, would suddenly be joined by strangers, often women of a different class, and having to live at close quarters, fascinated me. The incomers would have been pretty clueless, the boat women might not be able to read. They each had their strengths and weaknesses, things to learn from each other.

So as the men began to leave and these new realities of war came into being, I wanted to explore this through my characters. This book became Water Gypsies.

So far these books have been through several covers. These are the latest – with their suspiciously well-scrubbed looking heroines. It’s not quite the same inside the covers! I hope some of you might find something in them to enjoy.

Annie Murray

Annie has written several books including many which are set in historical Birmingham. She has in fact written 30 books so far, and they almost invariably end up in the paperback "top-sellers". Of particular interest to us, perhaps, are the two books which tell the story of women who lived and worked on canal boats.

Annie's books are available to buy from Amazon, but she also has her own website. You can follow Annie on Facebook and contact her by email

michael nye

featured author of the season - autumn 2024

Michael Nye

michael nye talks about his new (and older) books...

I’ve said that I thought “Mayfly” was my one book that we’re all supposed to have in us. I’m not sure how the latest one “Counting Freckles” has come about if that is the case because it’s number eleven in the Mayfly family. I call the books a family rather than a series because they are each individual stories that can be read alone or in the context of the other tales.

This latest book focusses on a brand new character that wasn’t born or even thought about when Jim and Amanda set off on their ongoing adventures. In fact even her mother was not alive back then. Coleen Phillips is the daughter of Astra who is the only child of Paul and Miranda, the couple who took the young Jim in when he had nowhere to go before the Mayfly adventure started. You with me so far? All of these new characters occupy space in my mind and seem to be telling me their stories a little at a time so that when I finish one book, I can’t just put my feet up because there’s more to tell. After Lois Turner (main character from “The Reed Cutter”) had told her story, it was time for Jim and Amanda’s daughter to have her say. She has a lot to say too and chose to do it in first person style, which presented a few problems for the writer… me! Next came a whole crew of people that appeared in “Maze Days” and other books who set about righting wrongs in their own special way. The older (and not much wiser) Jim and Amanda even took the newly refurbished Mayfly to sea as part of the adventure. Next came “Vee,” the life and times of Jim and Amanda’s long standing friend Vera Potter (who first appeared in Mayfly). Doing that in first person was one hell of a challenge but I did love seeing the world through Vera’s eyes. “Askatasuna” was a complete other kettle of fish, seeing the introduction of two new characters (Ella and Casey) who both have an unknown connection to Jim and Amanda’s original adventures. You’ll have to read the book to find out just what that is.

Mayfly book by Michael Nye

Here We Go book by Michael Nye

Emily's Journey

Nearwater - book by Michael Nye

As always, the writing of each new book gets more complicated as the timelines and characters from past books interact with new ones. Each one has to be both in character and in keeping with the history of the (unrelated) clan of folk that I appear to have created over the past fifteen years since I wrote the first words of Mayfly. I started out with two main characters (plus a handful of supporting ones) in Mayfly and this number has now gone to more than I can count (with even more supporting roles) and a timeline that spans over 90 years.

When I was sufficiently into the writing of Mayfly, I decided that I was going to do pretty much all of the work myself (apart from some proofreading and final printing). I chose watercolour as a medium and all covers are done larger than life (usually A2) using old Reeves and Winsor & Newton paints. Yet again each cover tells its own story by taking references that can be found in the text of the book. Once finished I stick the paintings to the side wall of the house on a day when the light is just right, and then photograph them with a halfway decent digital camera. Originally this was just to see if the images would be suitable when I sent them to the printers, it being my intention to have them professionally copied somewhere. When the word came back that they were absolutely fine as they were, I set about adding titles etc. and enjoying each part of the cottage industry feel that had come about.

Ballad of Masie and Linda

The Reed Cutter, by Michael Nye

Maze Days, by Michael Nye

The Mayfly Children, by Michael Nye

Once Mayfly was out, I did wonder, “What happened to Jim and Amanda next?” Cue “Here we Go!” and all the rest. I’m now kind of comfortable with the idea that I could still be writing about the escapades of this curious gang until I finally drop off my perch. Apart from the odd villain, I do like the people from the books and find it hard to kill any of them off. As an author you’re supposed to be able to terminate your characters with ease but I’ve only visibly bumped one of them off in an unpleasant way, and he was irredeemably horrible so he doesn’t count! In short, I have a whole clan of friends stomping around my brain and I’d miss them if they weren’t there. I do sometimes think I should charge them rent but they are mostly quite tidy people and they do pay me back with their stories. I sometimes feel that my characters are actually dictating the tales to me, which is just a tad worrying (on account of the fact that they don’t exist). I remember one episode of Mayfly which unravelled itself in a far different way that I’d got planned because Jim and Amanda had other ideas. After eleven books I should be used to this but when Lois, on the spur of a moment, made what amounted to a major decision in “The Reed Cutter,” I was pretty much completely blind sided by it. Each time I read through during the edit process I thought “Did I actually write that?” but was put off changing it by Lois (who, let’s remember is a fictional character) peering menacingly over my shoulder. But it’s OK, Lois, it’s still there as you dictated it to me and as, no doubt, it really happened in the space that you occupy in your world! Likewise when Coleen steps up to the mark to honour a promise, it was pretty unexpected. I just went with the flow on this one, deciding that it wasn’t such a good idea to annoy Coleen who seemed to have enough on her plate. Such is the case with each of the other books, which could well end up sending me completely bonkers. Then again maybe I always was.

Vee, by Michael Nye

Askatasuna, by Michael Nye

Counting Freckles, by Michael Nye

The “Mayfly” family of books so far are; Mayfly, Here we Go! Emily’s Journey, Nearwater, The Ballad of Masie and Linda, The Reed Cutter, Maze Days, The Mayfly Children, Vee, Askatasuna and now (Just out) Counting Freckles. All of the books have river, canal and even a little bit of seawater flowing through the thread of the story, but I do hope that their appeal goes beyond their being books for waterways enthusiasts. They are available from my website www.michaelnyewriter.com (which has links to the Lulu independent online bookstore as well as Amazon and Kindle). I chose to point the website towards Lulu as the main store because they are such a helpful company both in sales and publishing my work.