Yearly Archives: 2024

learning a new way of ‘being’

learning a new way of 'being'

When we decided to move onto a narrow boat, I knew there were over 2000 miles of canals in the English canal system, but I hadn’t taken into consideration the amount of that distance that would be unavigable because of maintenance closures at any one time.

I guess I had visions of us just pootling around choosing where we fancied going next…how wrong I was!

In my ‘old life’, every day was mapped out with a sense of purpose, although I always felt I lived my life like a never ending ‘to do’ list; coming onto the boat was a way of retraining myself to behave differently and be less of a control freak.

I had no idea how challenging it would be to try to change the behavioural habits I’d had for decades, plus how to cope with the constant disruptions to our travelling plans.

Wigan Top Lock

canal drained for repair work

We’d hoped to get onto the Leeds-Liverpool Canal last year at the end of the summer; we planned to leave the Peak Forest Canal and descend the Marple Flight of locks and head towards Manchester and onto Wigan.

The Wigan Flight of locks are the access point to the Leeds-Liverpool Canal.

Not only did the Marple Flight close months ago (and is still closed) but the Wigan Flight closed too; both flights have major structural issues, hence we’ve been kind of hanging around in the north waiting to head towards Skipton….eventually.

We’ve been to the Yorkshire Dales many times with the caravan in the past and always planned to come back on board NB Grace, but it’s taken a lot of patience on my part (Rob is much more laid back than me 😉) not to insist that we abandon the idea and head south.

snowdrops

snow covered flower

Wigan was supposed to open last Friday, but CRT then announced it would be this Friday; apparently the flight opens tomorrow at 10am and we’re within a couple of hours of the bottom of the flight.

There are 21 huge double locks to wrestle with, then onwards through Blackburn, Burnley and various towns before heading for the hills.

I often think our lifestyle looks idyllic in so many ways, but it’s not without it’s challenges.

I know, more often than not, that the challenge is within me; can I embrace uncertainty to just go with the flow and accept what is, rather than resist what I don’t want or like?

To be absolutely honest, I’m still very much a work in progress, but being aware of what I struggle with means ‘if I can see it, I don’t always have to be it’ 🙃

viking boats

viking boats

stepping into your ancestor's shoes (plus his cloak and boots)

By the time you read this it will be spring, with new temperature records set daily and I should be in shorts and t shirt but now I'm not. Indeed, I have worked outside since the age of 15 and this winter has been hardest so far for keeping warm, mainly because it has been so wet, and damp is biggest source of heat loss. Dawn treader (Dt) has been an awful lot warmer since I turned the clock back to paraffin lamps, it's been 5 degrees outside and 20 inside - that’s a respectable lift of 15!  Oddly enough, it’s got rid of the cluster flies and hundreds of spiders I used to suffer from! But it's still been cold sat in the cockpit etc., and this got me thinking...

My great grandfather to the power of 30,  Erik Wolfensohn the Warm ( Viking bloke) managed to sail the north sea as far as Iceland in an open boat in February. Despite what we think, they were no hardier than us; they didn’t have magical anti-freezing powers, so there must be something he knew that time and fashion have erased.

Clothing! Ever since I started sailing at 15, clothing for boaters has been driven by fashion (blame Jan's Boutique on Howard’s way). Today we all wonder around in manmade fibres with some special property – feature plus benefit equals sales with the labels sewn where they can be easily read, and each label raises our social status.  But I am sorry to say none of it has kept me warm or dry. You will have to forgive my sketchy research on this as very little is written down on just what great etc grandad wore, but it would appear to be the following. Linen under trousers – (cotton wasn’t around just yet!) felted woollen socks (easy to do  - just buy large ones and tumble dry them), linen shirt,  then heavy woollen trousers and woollen jumper or top with a tunic and heavy woollen cloak, fur boots and wool around the legs bit like a 1980s keep fit thing. Because wool has an amazing property: it can keep heat in when its wet! Of course add some waterproofing which sheep make naturally, and although you probably smelled beyond today's social acceptance, you could survive what ever the weather threw at you – in fact the more I read about what these people did with wool the more I wonder if that’s how we got our name!

I am writing this snug and warm in sheep skin boots, sheepskin waistcoat, heavy wool socks and a sheepskin hat and thick wool reefer jacket – all my branded expensive gear is now in a local charity shop, help yourselves it's useless!!!

Anyway, on with the show and DT's gas tank is out, and I’ve welded 6 inches to the top to accept the new bottles. I wasn’t going to take it out and did get a quote to weld in situ, but I thought it’s been in there twenty years so better refurbish the whole thing with several coats of rust convertor. Having got this far I have ordered a gas bubble. Slightly expensive and I am in the habit of turning the gas off when I don’t use it, but I think it’s a good safety feature.

I’ve added two carbon monoxide detectors mainly because I was using paraffin lamps and interestingly, they didn’t go off which is unsurprising seeing as they don’t when the gas cooker is on full tilt. I have removed the bubble pack from the windows. The more it can breathe now the better. Indeed a day recently with the widows wide open and a wind blowing through dried it out more than any heater or dehumidifier could ever achieve. Whilst I had no gas and couldn’t use the paloma water heater, I filled it full of kettle descaler – what a difference! I should have done that ages ago! All the gas knobs have had a light smear of gas tap grease ready for new bottles – though I have sort of got used to living on board quite happily and cheaply without gas – it is part of the boat and I now know how to use it sparingly, whereas before I relied on it especially the heater which really burnt it – about 2 kilos in 24hours.

It’s my safety certificate this year; I quite like this because I like working from repair manuals. I just go through everything they check and make sure it’s still working, attached etc. CRT and the inspectors are always a good source of info if you are unsure (my new gas locker being a prime example). I think there is too much bending of the rules once they have left and dubious pressure gas portable stoves and heaters creep back on board, because we forgot how our ancestors coped with the cold.

Now if you will excuse me, I am off to plunder Lindisfarne, there being precious little on the Kennet and Avon worth a Viking raid.

wanderings on the trent and mersey canal

a canal wanderer

wanderings on the trent and mersey canal

canalside in Stone

We have done a number of walks from Preston Brook to the Stoke area on the Trent and Mersey Canal. Our eventual plan one day is to walk the remainder of the canal from Stoke to Trent Lock/Derwent Lock. The Trent and Mersey Canal is 93 miles long with 76 locks and it connects the rivers Mersey, in the West, and Trent and Derwent, in the East. The canal was built in 1766, engineered by James Brindley and promoted by Josiah Wedgwood for its transportation of pottery in the Stoke area.

Trent and Mersey Canal has a number of interesting features including Anderton Boat Lift and Harecastle Tunnel. This article's focus is on Stone, a market town in Staffordshire, near Stoke and Stafford. The canal runs through the town and once upon a time it was famous for its beer brewing because of the quality of the water. The town had two main breweries, John Joule and Sons (brewed and exported from 1780 until 1974) and Montgomery and Company (brewed from 1889 until 1968) and the canal was used to transport and export the beer.

The Star Inn, a Canalside pub, named after the Star Lock, is an interesting pub to visit. The building is considered one of the oldest in the area and the pub has been licenced since 1819. The building in its time was used for stables and also in its time, a butcher shop and a slaughterhouse. The pub is recommended for its wonderful food, and there are a variety of eating areas as the building retains its original differing floor levels.

canalside in Stone

I painted two pictures, above, of the Canalside in Stone using gouache paint also as known as opaque watercolour. Using gouache brings out the colour and ambience the Canalside brings for both boaters and walkers.

impact of storms on canal network

As we ended 2023 and a new year began, Storms Gerrit and Henk swept across the country – and our canal network did not remain untouched. The worst-hit areas were in Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire. Reaction came very quickly, with our dedicated teams busy clearing weirs and opening paddles, and with that we’ve largely managed to maintain water levels.
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lead barnerds

lead barnerds

On New Years Eve 2023-24 in a pub called The Bull, I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a lovely couple, Gerry and Lin, who incidentally publish this magazine. Gerry was to perform the cabaret act later that evening, and he and My Creator clicked instantly as they propped up the bar supping beer and exchanging stories.

Then the subject of art cropped up. My Creator, as I call him, who goes by the pseudo name of Barn and whom I can only describe as a scruffy arty sort, reached into his jacket pocket and pulled out the silver tin that he keeps little lead sculptures of me in. He opened it and placed seven copies of me on the bar top in front of Gerry.

group of seven lead barnerds

“They’re called BARNERDS for want of a name, a nerd you met in a bar, thats me!” Then Barn asked, “So which one talks to you ?”

Gerry’s eyes narrowed as he studied the group, then he picked one up between forefinger and thumb, “It’s heavy for such a small sculpture,” he said.
“That’s 'cos it’s made of lead. I cast a thousand of them, I’ve only got about a hundred left.”
“Umm lead eh,” Gerry pondered, “Where did you get the lead from?”

Now I’ve noticed a lot of people ask that question when given a copy of me, and My Creator always tells them the same story about when he was a kid, and his grandfather gave him seven old lead musket balls.
“He said they were from The English Civil War, objects designed purely to kill and maim, whereas I remould the lead into pieces of art.”
“How did you make a thousand of these out of just seven musket balls?” Gerry asked, doing the maths.
“Ah I made the rest of the mix up with lead that I nicked off a church roof, ha ha !" He laughed at his own joke.

Barn went on to explain that for the past quarter century he had been distributing these little lead sculptures all around the planet.
"North, South, East and West. I leave them in interesting places, some to be found, others not, to reside there for eternity! But mainly I just give them to nice people I meet on my travels, often folk I get chatting to whilst sitting at the bar in pubs or cafes, or I give them to waiting staff and street buskers as tips. Mind you, I always ask them if they want to except a BARNERD first, I don’t want to force my art on people, and if I get the chance I bless them and ask that they wish for World Peace and Global Stability.” Barn elaborated on his wish, “World Peace as in to stop the wars we humans inflict on each other and Global Stability as in super volcanos, earth quakes, asteroid strike, etc. This beautiful planet that we all live on is very fragile, we need to respect and look after it," he added.

With that Gerry ordered two whisky’s; they chinked glasses, shook hands and toasted the wish.

barnerds are tiny

“How do you make these Barnerd’s?” Gerry went on to ask.
“Oh easy! I melt the lead in a ladle over hot embers then pour it into clay moulds in batches of seven. Seven's my lucky number. Then, when the casts are cool enough, I knock them out of their moulds and then I hold each copy of The BARNERD aloft, I bless the universe and make my wish.”
“And what's this strange pose The BARNERD’s supposed to be in?" Gerry inquired as he studied me more closely.
“It’s got one arm wrapped over the head and the other wrapped under the chin; it’s giving itself a cuddle of sorts.”

My Creator demonstrated and Gerry immediately imitated the pose. Anyone watching the two ageing gentlemen sitting at the bar in this peculiar position could be forgiven for thinking that they’d had one too many...

“I’ll keep my BARNERD safely in my wallet until I find a nice place to put it on my canalboat,” Gerry promised.
“Wow you live on a canalboat!” Barn exclaimed, “I’ve scattered a few copies along towpaths over the years, maybe some of your readers have found one”.
“Who knows,” said Gerry. “ I’d be interested to hear from anyone that has."
“You probably will,” I mused to myself.

best european destinations for water holidays

best european destinations for water holidays

man with yacht

Boating holidays have been seeing a remarkable surge in popularity across the UK. ABC Leisure Group reports a 40% increase in sales from the previous year, reflecting a growing trend of individuals seeking unique experiences on the country's extensive canal network.

As first-timer Adrian Ellis navigated the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal, he discovered the nerve-wracking yet enchanting aspects of trying to navigate canal locks. But while adventuring through rivers and canals is a one-of-a-kind experience, some travellers may be more suited to certain experiences than others. Fortunately, the UK and Europe have a range of destinations that can be enjoyed through a variety of watercraft. In exploring European destinations, three distinct choices stand out, each offering a unique mode of water travel.

Narrowboats in France

France is renowned for its navigable rivers and canals, offering a delightful experience for narrowboat enthusiasts. You can look at the French offerings of major hire companies like LeBoat. This is a specialist with vast hire fleets that allow travellers to explore the picturesque French countryside at their own pace, from deep south to the borders with Germany and Holland

Besides its variety of waterways and breadth of the waterways, France stands out for its user-friendly network, particularly its electrically operated locks. This feature eliminates the challenges faced by first-timers, providing a smooth and enjoyable journey through the French waterways.

Chartered yachts in Italy

The Mediterranean is an incredibly popular destination for all travellers who enjoy the small luxuries of warm weather and turquoise waters. While the region has much to offer visitors on land, exploring the coasts of Italy by sea can be a particularly unique experience. Travellers can up the ante by chartering yachts such as the Heavenly Daze, available through charter company Y.co and exploring the Italian Riviera by sea.

Chartered yachts allow passengers to enjoy all the luxuries of sea travel while having exclusive use of the vessels for a period of time. While yachting used to be the exclusive domain of the super-rich, there are a range of options now available for travellers who don't mind paying a little extra for luxury. Popular yachting destinations in Italy include the Amalfi Coast, Capri, the Aeolian Islands, and more.

Ocean cruises in Greece

Greece boasts a myriad of islands, each with its unique charm and cultural significance. An ocean cruise allows travellers to effortlessly explore multiple islands in a single journey, making the most of the limited travel time. On A Journey to the Cinematic Aegean Sea by Explora Cruises, you can simply embark at Athens on an eight-day journey towards mythical Mykonos, Skopelos’ sacred slopes, and even Thessaloniki. This provides a comprehensive tour of Greece's incredible sights, with no need for extra bookings for accommodation or transport.

It helps that luxury cruise lines provide various amenities to ensure a relaxing experience while at sea. In fact, Explora is well-known not only for its itineraries but also for its oceanfront suites and generous outdoor decks, which allow travellers to embrace the allure of Greece's islands while enjoying the comforts of a well-appointed cruise ship.

Choosing your water holiday

Each water holiday offers a distinct experience, so consider personal travel preferences when making your choice of adventure. Narrowboats can offer a leisurely and intimate experience for small, close-knit groups or couples, whereas chartered yachts can provide versatility for larger groups desiring a mix of adventure and relaxation. Meanwhile, ocean cruises, with their structured itineraries, cater to individuals looking for a hassle-free journey in a diverse and social setting.

Of course, your choice is also highly dependent on your destination. Luxury travel consultancy Vgari Lifestyle suggests exploring Europe’s lesser-known gems to steer clear of the summertime crowds. However, these places can have more limited choices of water travel. For instance, the waters of the Côte d'Azur in France are dominated by yachts, whereas charter boats leave every morning at Senja in Norway. Opting for these water holidays can provide a unique European experience you never knew was possible.

To get started planning your holiday, check out our other articles on CanalsOnline Magazine. As the popularity of boating holidays continues to soar, exploring Europe's waterways promises an unforgettable and personalised adventure for every traveller.

old billy

old billy

the world's oldest horse

A recent foray into the wilds of the city took us into the Manchester Museum where, hidden slightly at the back of room full of other deceased creatures in various states of undress, is a horse skull. There is a neon sign high above the glass case that says “Old Billy” but with the exhibit being just a few feet from the wall, the lights are often missed and people walk by, not connecting the skull with the painting or the slightly monosyllabic information board on the opposite wall.

skull of Old Billy

Old Billy horse skull

There’s nothing particularly remarkable about the skull unless you are a horsey person, in which case you may well notice the remaining teeth are more than a little geriatric. This is because the owner of those teeth was 62 years old when he died in 1822, an age that has never been matched even with today's advances in veterinary science.

What’s this got to do with waterways, I hear you ask. Well Billy belonged to the Mersey and Irwell Navigation Company.

Our story begins in 1762, at Wilgrave Farm in Warrington. The farm sat in a loop of the River Mersey and the horses grazed in fields that overlooked the boats manfully trying to navigate up the river. The Mersey and Irwell Navigation at that time was undergoing a bit of a crisis, having been happily running something of a transport monopoly until Francis Egerton popped up with his brass-balls and started building the Bridgewater canal, spooking the company into finally addressing some of the serious navigational issues.

The navigation was populated by broad-beamed, flat bottomed barges that could carry about 35 tonnes if there was enough water, but in the summer especially, there was a distinct lack of water and their masters would be forced to reduce the cargo to about 15. Even then, boats could find themselves getting stuck on the shallows and having to be flushed off by dint of the closest lock being opened and everyone crossing their fingers.

Mersey & Irwell Navigation - flat bottomed boat

Wilgrave Farm 1849

These boats were broad, bluff vessels with a single mast and sail that allowed them to deal with the estuary, and when they couldn’t use their sail they were initially pulled by gangs of men. There was a shift in this, however, and when Billy was foaled in 1760 it was mentioned in the Act of Parliament for the Bridgewater canal that horses were a motive power.

There is some room for debate as to whether Billy was born at Wilgrave farm or whether he’d been bought as a youngster with the intention of breaking him in, but it is most probable that Billy was foaled at Wilgrave farm itself. He may well have been intended as a carriage horse; the contemporary accounts noted he had a look about him of the Arabian horse and as his ears were cropped - a revolting fashion for the time and an act you’d typically carry out on a horse before it was big enough to, quite rightly, kick your face in when you took a knife to his ears.

Billy was a powerful, stocky youngster standing at around 14.2 hands high. He was about 2 years old in 1762 when he was handed to teenage horseman Henry Harrison, who began the process of training him “for the plough.”

Perhaps because of the training methods of the time (or perhaps as a response to having his ears cropped, his tail docked and quite probably also getting his gonads done for good measure in an age with no anaesthetic) Billy grew up with a vicious streak and a tendency to bite and kick. This is not an ideal trait for a plough horse and quite possibly why he was quickly sold on, probably straight to the Mersey & Irwell Company.

Despite what a quick Google search might tell you, a contemporary account written in the horse’s old age tells us that Billy spent the next 30 years as a gin horse before going on to pull boats. This isn’t surprising - a gin horse would be hitched to a draw bar that rotated round a vertical axle, creating motive power for machines, and smaller, compact horses were preferable simply because they would fit to the gin better. The Mersey & Irwell company themselves would have had gins everywhere for anything from powering winches to pumps. There were gin powered corn mills and saw mills, and portable gins that could be loaded into a cart and dragged off to where it was needed, perhaps meaning that Billy might have been coming out with a team to help free off loaded boats caught on shallows.

According to the account, Billy began pulling boats quite late in his career. We can speculate that this could have been something to do with his temper, which didn’t mellow until he reached advanced old age, and pulling a boat would have kept the driver at a fairly safe distance from lashing feet, nor would anyone have looked twice at a boathorse being thrashed.

At some point, someone in the company realised exactly how long Billy had been on their books for and it dawned on them that they might actually have something a bit special on their hands. In 1819 Billy was pensioned off with none other than Henry Harrison once more assigned to his care, and he moved the Latchford stables of William Earle, one of the directors of the company, finally allowed to mooch about on his own terms.

In the summer warmth, Billy trotted and galloped stiffly with youngsters more than 60 years his junior and in the winter he stayed in his stable, rugged and fed soft linseed mash. His attitude, although mellowed by the years, did not improve all that much and legend says that he was supposed to come out for the coronation parade in Manchester in 1821, but refused point blank to leave the comfort of his stable.

Perhaps realising that time was running out for the curmudgeonly old horse, William Earle commissioned the famous sporting artist Charles Towne to come out for him. Towne, in the company of a vet named Lucas and a man named Johnson who appears to have been a reporter of some kind, met the horse on the 11th July 1822 and everyone was suitably impressed by the old stalwart.

Towne painting of Old Billy the horse

The painting shows a gaunt animal with a thoughtful face. The lack of ears makes him look worried, and although his hips jut through his skin, you can still see the powerful build that made him such a success in his career.

1823 notice of Old Billy's death

Billy died that winter, either on the 27th November or the 11th December, quite possibly finally succumbing to malnutrition as his worn teeth would have made it difficult for him to take much good from hay and it was long before the veteran feeds of today.

Old Billy's head taxidermy (Wikipedia)Not unexpectedly perhaps for the time, he was taxidermied, although for some reason it took 2 years before someone decided to do something with the remains and gave them to the new Manchester Society of Natural History in 1824.

For some reason, Billy was displayed in the nude, with his skeleton out on display while his skin was “under the stairs” in a box.

Billy’s remains were moved into the newly built Manchester Museum around 1888, but exactly what of the remains made the move is questionable. Certainly his skull made it, and became an exhibit, but the rest of his skeleton appears to have gone missing, along with most of his skin. I say “most” because bizarrely the skin of his head was restuffed and ended up travelling 160 miles south to Bedford, where it apparently still remains today.

Despite his mortal remains having a slightly ignominious fate, he is still an important part of Warrington’s heritage life, with the local museum holding a special event on the 200th anniversary of his death and his story being immortalised in a charming illustrated children’s book last year.

december 2023

december 2023

liveaboard boaters in winter

Looking at the weather forecast has become far more pertinent now that we spend a lot of the year on our narrow boat and for those of you who live aboard permanently, the fluctuation in our weather must be a source of concern, especially in these winter months.

A prudent boater will be well prepared with stocks of wood, coal, food and other essentials. Not everyone is in this fortunate position of adequate provision so it is good for us to look out for one another and show kindness and practical help where we are able.

For some, the winter months on the canal are a welcome change from the more frenetic summer season. Hankering down, with a warm stove glowing can be a comfortable retreat from the world around. Infrequent boat moving leads to an opportunity to get to know other boaters moored nearby, showing hospitality to one another.

However not everyone appreciates the winter months. Loneliness can be more pronounced and for some, the lack of sunlight can result in seasonal affective disorder.

frozen canal boats

In these turbulent times with the world so fractured and many full of fear, perhaps we can help one another in small ways, shining light into one another's lives to relieve darkness and fear.

How important it is to care for our neighbour, reminding me that God's first commandment in the Bible is for us to to love him, followed by his second commandment that we love one another. With a New Year ahead of us perhaps a resolution could be to extend the hand of friendship to all those who come into our path.

Wishing you a peaceful 2024, Mary