Monthly Archives: May 2025

rediscovering the past afloat

rediscovering the past afloat

the story of heritage harbours

There’s something magical about harbours. Even if you’re not a boat person—or even a water person—it’s hard not to be charmed by the bustle, the ropes creaking against bollards, and the gentle lapping of water.

At its core, the Heritage Harbour concept is a grassroots effort to recognise and protect historically significant inland and coastal harbours that still carry the marks of Britain’s maritime past. It’s about giving these places a new life—not as static museum pieces, but as living, working ports where traditional boats and trades are not only remembered but celebrated and continued. In short: they’re not just relics— they’re alive.

The Birth of a Concept

The idea of Heritage Harbours in the UK is relatively new, but it borrows heavily from a successful movement in the Netherlands and elsewhere in Europe, where dozens of harbours have been designated and protected for their cultural and maritime value. Inspired by this model, several UK organisations began looking at how to do something similar here.

Enter National Historic Ships UK (NHS-UK), Historic England and the Maritime Heritage Trust—all key players who got behind the wheel, so to speak. Together, they created a framework to help identify and promote harbours that still retain their historic character and can serve as hubs for heritage vessels and maritime skills.

So far, this effort has been championed largely by local communities and passionate maritime enthusiasts who want to see their local waterways thrive again—culturally, socially, and even economically.

What Makes a Heritage Harbour?

A Heritage Harbour isn’t just any picturesque quay. It needs to have retained physical features from its industrial or trading heyday—things like original bollards, cranes, warehouses, and slipways. But it's also about the stories that come with them. These places are selected for their ability to support historic boats and traditional skills.

There’s no single, top-down government scheme rubber-stamping harbours as “Heritage,” either. This is very much a community-led designation. Once a harbour group believes their site f its the bill, they can work with the relevant national bodies to gain recognition and promote their status.

Shardlow: An inland example

Shardlow Inland Port Festival

Shardlow is a small village in Derbyshire that, to the untrained eye, might look like just another sleepy waterside spot. But take a closer look and you’ll find one of the finest surviving examples of an 18th-century inland port.

The village blossomed in the late 1700s after the opening of the Trent and Mersey Canal - a vital artery during the Industrial Revolution. Shardlow was perfectly placed to become a major point between the canal system and river traffic. At its peak, it had dozens of warehouses, boatyards, inns, stables, and other infrastructure to support the bustling trade of goods ranging from coal and salt to pottery and timber.

Fast-forward to today, and much of that infrastructure still exists. There are old warehouses now converted into homes and pubs, restored toll houses, and surviving workshops. It’s not hard to picture horses clopping along the towpath, or barges being loaded by hand.

This level of preservation helped Shardlow become one of the first locations to be proposed as a Heritage Harbour in the UK. Local heritage groups have worked to document the site’s history and ensure its buildings and water spaces are protected and—importantly—used.

Shardlow is a working example of how heritage can coexist with leisure boating and modern life. Historic narrowboats still visit, and there are regular events that bring traditional skills, like rope making and boat painting, to life for the public.

More Than Just Nostalgia

So why does this all matter?

Britain’s waterways played a huge part in the Industrial Revolution, helping to shape towns, economies, and social structures. But as those industries faded, so too did many of the ports and harbours that once buzzed with activity. The Heritage Harbours concept is about recognising that value—not just historically, but culturally and economically.

There’s a growing recognition that places like Shardlow can boost local tourism, support traditional trades, and provide hands-on learning opportunities for future generations. And with sustainability and localism coming to the fore, these kinds of community-driven heritage initiatives are striking a real chord.

The Road (or Canal) Ahead

Sailing Barge Snark in Exeter Heritage Harbour

As of now, the Heritage Harbours network in the UK is still growing, we welcomed two more locations during Heritage Open Days 2024 which has taken us up to fourteen in total: Gloucester, Ramsgate, Bideford, Bristol, Buckler’s Hard, Chester, Exeter, Faversham and Oare Creeks, Ipswich, Maldon and Heybridge, Sandwich, Shardlow, Stourport, and Wells next the Sea. Each one brings its own unique character and challenges, but they all share the same mission: to keep Britain’s maritime heritage afloat—literally.

So next time you’re wandering along a canal towpath or sipping a pint outside a converted warehouse pub, take a moment to imagine what life might’ve looked like two hundred years ago. You might just find you’re walking through a living piece of history—and thanks to the Heritage Harbours movement, that history has never felt more alive.

Hannah Hurford

Maritime Heritage Trust logo

Hannah Hurford is a Trustee of the Maritime Heritage Trust and is a Heritage Officer for Exeter's Heritage Harbour. Hannah is also a Director for Lynher Barge CIC and she runs a traditional sailing and maritime heritage podcast called the Off Watch Podcast.

Facebook & Instagram: @offwatchpod

Website: https://www.offwatchpodcast.co.uk/

NHS UK Photography Competition

The always popular National Historic Ships competition is back for the 16th year. The theme is ‘Craft and Crew’ and there are some fantastic prizes to be won, as well as the chance to be featured in the 2026 Calendar and accompanying exhibition at Historic Dockyard Chatham.
Read More

national historic ships photography competition

national historic ships

UK photography competition 2025

The always popular National Historic Ships UK Photography Competition is back for a 16thyear.

The theme is “Craft & Crew” and there are some fantastic prizes to be won, as well as the chance to be featured in the 2026 Calendar and accompanying exhibition at Historic Dockyard Chatham.

NHS-UK is hoping for entries which reflect the wide variety of historic craft, big and small, afloat and ashore. Photographers may also interpret the theme by capturing the traditional techniques and skills essential for maintenance or highlighting the people that operate and care for these wonderful vessels.

Visit the Events Page at: www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/events to discover some of the many maritime and inland waterways events being hosted this year. In a country threaded with navigable waterways, where one is never more than 70 miles from the coast, there are many opportunities to explore this year’s theme and take a winning photograph!

The competition is open from 1stMay –31stAugust 2025.

Read more and enter: www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/photocomp

Editor's note: The header photograph is by Kev Maslin

my nomadic life

my nomadic life

finding my why (and what and how...)

It’s almost 4 years since we decided to sell our house, cars, caravan and pretty much all of our possessions to have a narrow boat built to live on, so how has that decision played out in reality? Is this nomadic way of life what we thought it would be?

The decision to do something completely off piste (for us at least) happened as a result of being at home in lockdown and ‘seeing’ a life in the future that looked a little too predictable; as we were both self employed and in our 60’s, it felt like time for a change.

Sometimes, it’s the big decisions we make in life that feel absolutely right, even when people around you are scratching their heads wondering what on earth you’re thinking of.

Our ‘why’ was mostly based upon wanting to challenge ourselves by living a totally different way of life, having an opportunity to see new places from a different perspective i.e. the canals, being immersed in nature most of the time and living a life where every day is different.

narrowboat and sunset

We did consider whether to buy a big motorhome instead, but decided against it because we wanted (at that time) to get away from the madness of busy roads and traffic…..we didn’t know what was ahead!

I bumped into someone yesterday who used to come to my Pilates classes and she said ‘you’re living a lovely life’ and we are, but as with any type of lifestyle, it does have it’s drawbacks and limitations.

The first canals in England were built in the late 1790’s and much of the network is over 200 years old; the canals were originally built as transport routes in the industrial heartlands of the north and the Midlands. After falling into disrepair with the advent of steam trains, they began to be resurrected again for the use of leisure boats in the 1970’s.

The canal system requires a huge amount of maintenance which is costly and time consuming; although the Canal & River Trust manage the system, a reduction in government funding year on year means the system is slowly failing, which can make life difficult for those of us who live on the water.

narrowboat on canal with dramatic skies

Many reservoirs that feed the canals also require heavy maintenance programmes and when reservoirs are low in water, canal water levels suffer accordingly.

It’s becomingly increasing difficult to navigate the northern canals, largely due to breaches on the Bridgewater and Macclesfield Canals; most hire boat companies selling holidays on their boats have usually been able to offer circular routes for their customers (called a ring) but with the closure of navigable waterways, businesses are struggling too as people choose not to hire boats any longer.

It sounds as if the outlook is all doom and gloom which isn’t entirely true as there are still many miles of waterways to travel which are peaceful and beautiful too, but there is a definite deterioration in the system overall.

So, is boat life still meeting our expectations? Like all aspects of life for any of us, we have to be flexible, adaptable and open to change.

As the canal and river network doesn’t allow us to access places we still want to visit, we made the decision to add another mode of transport to extend our nomadic lifestyle even further…..who knew we’d be back on the roads 4 years after saying we wanted to get away from them?!

You might imagine retirement to be a time of settling down into a peaceful routine…not quite pipe and slippers, but not travelling around all over the place, but our motto is ‘if not now, when?’

motor home

The logistics of boat and van life are new to us, but we’re finding our way around being able to cruise on the boat and planning trips to places we can’t get to on the boat in the van.

We love being able to walk in the Peak District and it’s difficult to get there on the boat at the minute due to closures on the Macclesfield Canal; so, out comes the van and off we go.

Both the van and the boat meet our 'why, what and how' needs...seeing different places, walking in nature and enjoying the peace and quiet of the countryside.

lady walking in countryside

country lane with dry stone walls

Who knows how long we’ll live this nomadic life for, but for now, there are places to go and things to do….now, where next?

dry stone wall and dramatic skies

Even though we’re often moving around, we’re always ‘at home’ as we’re living in our own places and surrounded by our own things. This suits us better than hiring a car and renting accommodation; despite being nomads, we are homebodies.

I wanted to challenge myself in retirement, to step outside my comfort zone a little and to test my mettle. After decades of feeling I needed to control every aspect of my life, I’m learning to go with the flow, to trust more and to be comfortable with, rather than fear uncertainty.
To live a life of variety, to be able to travel, to challenge ourselves, to keep active, to enjoy an outdoor lifestyle and to take life one day at a time is a privilege we never take for granted.

restoration of the Kennet and Avon canal

restoration of the kennet and avon canal

This follows my previous article on the building of the Kennet and Avon canal and its great success initially. For instance, in 1816, the Bath stone to build St. Lawrence’s church, Hungerford, was brought along the canal to the building site alongside the towpath. However, the canal’s use declined after the railway came through in 1847. Of course, it was in the interest of the railway companies that the canals should fall into disuse.

Nationalisation in 1948 put the canals in the ‘care’ of consecutive organisations, which eventually became the current Canal & River Trust. Initially, these organisations had little interest in the canals and did not consider they had a future, but the 1950s saw the start of the canal restoration movement, whose aim was to use the canals as pleasure waterways.

One saving factor for the K&A was barge operator John Gould of Newbury, who won a legal case because the 1794 Act demanded the right of navigation in perpetuity. So the canal was saved in principle, but in reality it was a total mess. Long stretches without water were filled with undergrowth, broken and rotting lock gates, crumbling banks, locks filled with deep mud, and so on.

Restoration in earnest started in the early 1970s with volunteers working in weekend gangs. As skilled as they became, the task was totally beyond them and most of the work had to be done by contractors.

The main task for the volunteers was then raising vast amounts of money. Fortunately, the National Lottery came up trumps, providing £25 million, one of its largest grants. After nearly 20 years, the restoration was complete and the entire Kennet and Avon canal was reopened by Queen Elizabeth II on the 8th August 1990.

Queen Elizabeth II on board narrowboat

Today the work of the Trust is focused on maintenance. Dredging is on a 3-year cycle. Wooden lock gates last about 25 years. Steel gates were tried but proved to be a disaster.

However, as reported in the Newbury Weekly News dated 23rd March 2000:

Members of the Newbury Britain in Bloom committee were joined by local canoeists, residents, representatives of the Kennet and Avon Canal Trust and canal enthusiasts, actors Timothy West and Prunella Scales, for the sixth annual River and Environmental Space Clean Up Event (RESCUE). On Saturday, the volunteers worked on the canal, using grappling hooks and ropes to dredge the bottom.

Passers-by were amazed at what came out and soon a crowd gathered to watch. The newspaper reported that, among the items pulled out of Newbury’s rivers and canals at the weekend, were eighty-five shopping trolleys, two armchairs, a tractor tyre, and security fencing and signposts, complete with concrete foundations.

“It just got to the point where we just threw the grappling hooks in and would pull something out. It was a lucky dip,” said one of the organisers.

Hopefully, our 2,000 miles of waterways in England and Wales will now be kept in good repair and continue to provide homes and leisure pursuits for all who wish to use them.
Iris Lloyd

that first shopping trip

that first shopping trip

a magical few moments in the life of Jim and Amanda

(from “Here we Go!” the second book in the Mayfly family by Michael Nye.)

“Let’s moor here for the night,” Amanda smiled.
It felt strangely hedonistic to stop because they felt like stopping, but they were simply enjoying their journey.
“We could do with a few provisions.. Butter at the very least,” Amanda said as they wandered round the old stone and brick buildings of the town centre.
“We’re in the right place,” Jim replied, pointing to a shop front.
“The Buttery,” it said. “Fine foods and wines for discerning palettes.”
“We’ve ruined ours with frying everything,” Amanda laughed.
“That such places as these have not caught up with the latest in gourmet cuisine is hardly our fault,” Jim replied, his absurd fake upper middle class accent sending Amanda further into her giggling, setting him off too.
Inside was a wide selection of expensive treats, a lot of which contained various unspeakable parts of rather unfortunate animals. There was also plenty to attract Amanda’s interest, and she browsed for some time as Jim just soaked up the atmosphere of age and money.

river cruising

sailing boats

“Can I help you?” The proprietor, who looked like she was running the place as a hobby, asked.
Amanda jumped slightly.
“Well, err, yes,” she stammered. “I’d like a jar of Kalamata olives, and, I think, some green as well, and some capers.”
Jim looked a little puzzled.
“Treats Jim. I’m not being all posh, well not really. The corner shop I worked at. I think the owner was born in the Mediterranean. Well, not in it, she’d have been a fish, but you know what I mean, she introduced me to them. Oh, and cakes.” she added, turning her attention back to the shopping. “We’d like a couple of nice cakes for afternoon tea.”
“And, um, butter,” Jim said.
The effect on Amanda was unintentional. She was giggling again, with eyes watering. She’d also set Jim off, but he faced away pretending to look at whatever was on the shelves before him.
“I’m sorry, I can’t sell you or your sister any alcohol,” the woman said as kindly as she could, mistaking Jim’s posture for concentration on the wines in front of him.
“I think we’re daft enough already,” Amanda replied. “Cakes, olives and capers will do fine. Just a few treats. And,” digging nails into the palm of her hand. “Butter.”
“Did your mother give you a list?” the woman asked politely.
“Well. No, um, I don’t, um.. live,” Amanda faltered.
“You’re a bit old to be playing picnics,” the woman said.
“You’re always too old or too young for something don’t you think,” Jim replied quietly.
“That’s true,” the woman smiled.

canoeing on the river

river cruising

As Amanda sorted through her purse for the the right money, her engagement ring sparkled in the light. Seeing it, and the gold wedding band nestling by it, made her smile.
“You’re a bit young to,” the woman stopped short, then continued. “He’s very astute, your.”
“Um..” Amanda faltered again
“Last Saturday,” Jim smiled. “I’m sure I’ll like olives and capers, and the other stuff. Amanda’s usually right about me.”
“That closeness takes a long time,” the woman replied.
“Time’s relative,” Jim said patiently. “Some scientist said, before he decided that being a watchmaker was a safer occupation. I’d like some good coffee. I was shown how to make it when some wonderful people looked after me.”
“Oh,” the woman replied. “What sort do you want?”
“They used a small pan. A briki. The milk pan on Mayfly would do.” Jim smiled at the memory. “It was a long time ago but.”
The woman looked surprised by the revelation.
“It sounds like Greek or Turkish coffee. We have some good beans here if you don’t mind waiting while I grind them,” she replied.
Amanda looked curiously at her husband.
“It was a treat for doing my homework well. I think you’d like it Mand. Sorry if I remembered a bit late,” he smiled briefly.
“It does take time to know someone,” Amanda said softly. “But it’s not so bad finding out.”
“I’ve only done a small bag because it goes off quite quickly.” the shopkeeper said. “You should have the proper cups and pot though,” she added placing couple of dusty looking coffee cups and a small briki on the counter. I’ve had these in stock for too long, and they’re a bit shop soiled. Call them a wedding gift.”
“Well, thanks,” Jim replied, his face warmed by a smile. “And sorry for being daft.”
“If you can’t laugh together at things only you find funny it’s going to be a dull marriage,” the woman smiled. “Come here and laugh at any time.”

river views

moored boats

“That was a pretty odd a shopping trip,” Amanda said as the two relaxed in the pleasant afternoon warmth enjoying the view down river from the back of the Mayfly.
“We can expect that if we behave like Pinky and Perky,” Jim replied as he sipped the coffee that he’d carefully prepared, its bitter-sweet taste complimenting the cakes that Amanda had chosen.
Jim had remembered with unusual accuracy the way to prepare the brew, and replicated it with an attention to detail that the casual observer might have called obsessive.
“How many times are you going to do that?” Amanda asked, lazily stretching her legs out towards the stern.
“I can brew another if you want,” Jim replied.
“Not what I meant,” she continued. “There was me trying to impress you with exotic treats, and then you do this. I mean, just like a professional. Then there was the honeymoon room, I didn’t see that coming either.”
“Well, technically riverside pubs don’t move, but everything’s relative, so it’s possible that Mayfly at that point was actually stationary in the whole of space, and everything else was moving, in which case I guess the place was coming at us,” Jim smiled.
“So, Jimbo. Why did I just marry a lunatic? Tell me?” Amanda said, trying to avoid yet more giggling.
“Because I make good coffee,” Jim smiled contentedly.
“I didn’t know that then!” Amanda mocked protest.