Across the years

In my early days of canal mania, I used to visit one particular stretch of the Leeds and Liverpool canal rather a lot, with friends, or sometimes alone. This stretch is the lockless pound that winds its way through stunning Pennine scenery from the bottom lock at Bank Newton (on the outskirts of Skipton, North Yorkshire) – to the bottom lock at Greenberfield - on the outskirts of Barnoldswick in Lancashire.

map from Nicholson’s Waterways Guide 5 – North West & Pennines

From these various visits, two specific (and contrasting) memories stand out:

The first was on a beautiful summer’s day when my partner and I simply didn’t want to leave the place where we were, even though it was getting late and dark. But the moon was bright and the night air so warm and balmy, that we seriously considered just lying down on the lush towpath turf, and spending the night there under the moon and stars. It was so very tempting but, in the end, realising that we had in no way prepared for an overnight stay, we made our silent way home - but not until I had photographed the dramatically silhouetted copse on Copy Hill, just across to the west from beneath the bottom lock.

The second occasion was on a New Year’s Day walk – in the middle of one of the coldest winters for years, and with a heavy overnight snowfall in evidence. However, the gritting lorries had done their job, and the roads were clear enough to get to Greenberfield locks. The sun set quickly with it’s brilliant colours and we were reluctant to leave this magical place, despite the cold. Snow and ice gripped everywhere, with everything in a deep freeze. Even the canal itself was frozen over. However, I was keen to get a particular shot of the bottom lock – from the middle of the canal! So I tested the ice, and it seemed solid enough – before making my way into the middle. [WARNING: do NOT try this at home – or on ANY water). With my photograph taken and the walk completed, we returned home, frozen yet happy, with coffee and mince pies to look forward to - and New Year’s Day to look back on!

Skipton and East Marton

It was not until several decades later that I suggested to my new companion that, given a fine summer’s day, we make our way to North Yorkshire to visit the sights of the northernmost stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool canal. Due to the recent drought conditions, all the locks are closed, with the trip boats from Skipton having to venture south-eastwards towards Bingley. We stand in line for a trip on several occasions – only to be barged out of the way by pre-booked end-of–term school children! Nevertheless, Skipton is a delightful town where we refuel on coffee and buy lunch for later. Then we’re off to East Marton, the only canalside hamlet between Bank Newton and Greenberfield locks.

Upon our arrival, I notice that the Cross Keys Inn is boarded up and looking very closed – a great pity. So we take the track down to the canal, passing a farm and a row of beautiful stone-terrace cottages on the way. At the bridge (No.162), there are several boats moored up where the canal towpath and the Pennine Way co-exist for a short distance. Taking the towpath to the north (towards Bank Newton), we are soon out into the open countryside and rolling hills of north Yorkshire. There are blue skies above and green hills and hillocks all around the canal, where nothing moves – except for a single pink kayak, taking advantage of the drought conditions. With no main road for miles around, there is no background sound or hum at all. It is perfectly quiet – like on an Alpine lift, with only the occasional cowbell disturbing the unique silence. But here there are not even cowbells – just a few cows.

But then, as we continue our walk, the highlight of the tour emerges: the TV repeater mast [the only visible sign of modernity] which was in front of us, is now across the canal to our left and then on our right. Before long, it is actually behind us – what’s going on? “The best example of a contour canal in the UK” is what’s going on – a double ‘S’ bend. Better even (in my opinion) than the contour bends on the southern Oxford canal*, as here, near East Marton, you can actually see the canal as it snakes it’s way north – given away by the lines of dry stone walls, and the occasional walker, only a few hundred yards away as the crow flies, yet almost a mile away along the contour-hugging towpath. For the contours are hugging the valley sides beneath the canal, so that you can see straight across the bends. However, it took a photo from a decade earlier to convince my companion that narrowboats actually work this canal – and had done so for a couple of centuries – the motorway of their day!

We reckon that Bank Newton is a stretch too far to walk today, so we unwind the bends on our return to East Marton, passing the TV mast at least three times as we do so. With lunch already consumed, we nevertheless have enough space for a coffee and delicious cake at Abbot’s Harbour Restaurant, next to the stone-terraced cottages. Abbot’s Harbour – so called because Cistercian monks built this house (in the 12^th century) in order to harbour their animals as they were moved between pastures.

To Greenberfield locks

Back in the car, it’s a ten-minute drive to Greenberfield locks, where we arrive just as the locks are opened for a few hours – so we see some boat movement at last. There’s also quite a few people in and around the car-park, where a large caravan provides ice creams and other refreshments - with a Canal & River Trust toilet, not far away: clearly it’s a popular place for a day out. My attention however, swiftly shifts to the bottom lock which I had photographed from the ice several decades earlier. But now, instead of the bitter cold, ice and darkness, is a glorious vista of rolling green hills and valleys and a delightful hump-back bridge, its arch picked out in white (no.158). We cross it, and walk on a bit further, towards a signpost for the witches of Pendle – and the Yorkshire-Lancashire border, which we cross before turning back. For I have a further photo to take – of the copse on Copy Hill – to compare how it had fared in the four decades since I last captured it on film.

The sun had shone all day and, having enjoyed the best part of the day amid the tranquil countryside of the northern Leeds & Liverpool we are sad to say goodbye as, Satnav at the ready, we prepare to exchange the serenity of motorways from time past, for the frenetic and furious motorways of time present.

James Adams

author: ‘The Curious Incident of the Bacon Butty, a Broken Tiller and a Mid-life Crisis’

website: www.jamesadams616.co.uk

* primarily at Wormleighton: Nicholson’s Waterways Guide 1: Grand Union, Oxford & the South East