cooking on the cut
with Lisa Munday
winter 2024
It’s the time of year when we have more time to think about what we are going to eat, maybe plan a little more and enjoy the thought and preparation that goes into our meals, especially over the festive period.
Food gifts and decorations hand made with love are so much more personal and meaningful than those shop bought ones which involve a lot of packaging and plastic. Although, my guilty confession during November was buying and consuming (I did share) two of boxes of Ferrero Rocher chocolates, purely to keep the boxes to give my home made chocolate truffles as gifts later on!
The smell of orange peel drying over the warm stove top and clove studded orange decorations mingling with cinnamon and star anise are a favourite. Dried orange zest is a wonderful addition to casseroles and bakes. Add the peel of a tangerine with a few cloves, star anise and a cinnamon stick to a small pan of water and leave to simmer over the stove to give your boat a lovely hint of Christmas.
CRANBERRIES Although I always like to keep dried ones in for baking etc. I have in years gone by bought fresh or frozen and done little with them, the convenience of a shop bought jar of cranberry sauce is simple and easy. There are lots of ways to use these plump little colourful berries and they marry so well with orange, walnuts, sausage, soft cheese and of course poultry. Add them to a salad of roasted squash, sprouts, red cabbage slowly simmered over the stove top with apple, orange, brown sugar and mixed spice. They are also a tasty addition to homemade bread and stuffing, even if you don’t make your own stuffing from scratch, just add them to shop bought along with some extra herbs and nuts such as walnuts, pecans or hazelnuts.
SAUSAGE ROLLS are so rewarding to make and can have much more flavour than shop bought. A pack of shop bought puff pastry can go a long way. You could split the pack and do half and half with savoury sausage rolls and a sweet mince pie roll. As long as you have a rectangular shape, brush down one edge with beaten egg, place the filling down the middle in a sausage shape, fold over, seal and brush the top with the rest of the egg (or milk) before baking. Remember to make a few slits in each one after cutting into individual rolls, sprinkle the top with a little sugar if doing the mince pie version, or finely grated cheese, sesame or poppy seeds if savoury. Instead of cranberry sauce you could use mango chutney or any other fruit chutney with the sausage meat, add a bit of dried stuffing for extra texture if you like. A vegetarian version would be to use very finely chopped onion, peppers and mushroom fried with lentils, sweet potato and Moroccan spices with which dried apricots or prunes work well.
Bay, sage and rosemary are the woody herbs we love to use at this time of year. They marry perfectly with tray roasted potatoes and vegetables, compliment meats and stuffings and add a wonderful flavour when infused in milk for any white sauce or gratin recipe. The spices of nutmeg, star anise and cinnamon are equally wonderful.
I’m sharing a few one pot fuss free festive dishes, which may be cooked over the stove (instead of in the oven) on those cold days when the fire is in all day. I’ve also got with some little extras and tips along with some sweet delights.
TURKEY ONE POT WITH RED CABBAGE AND APPLE This would serve four and will freeze or keep in the fridge for a few days, the quantities can easily be halved for less. This recipe would also work with pork steaks.
6 tsp vegetable oil
2tsp balsamic vinegar
4 turkey breast steaks
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove crushed
500g red cabbage, finely shredded
225g raw baby beetroot, peeled and cut into wedges
2 red apples, thinly sliced
finely grated, zest and juice of 1 orange
1½ tsp light muscovado sugar
400g tin green lentils, drained
4tbsp chicken or vegetable stock
1tsp wholegrain mustard pinch salt and black pepper
Mix 2 tsp of the oil with 1tsp of the vinegar and lightly brush over the turkey steaks, season with the salt and pepper, set aside to marinate while you make the braised red cabbage. Heat 3 tsp of the oil in a flameproof casserole dish (approx. 3 litre capacity) and gently fry the onion for a couple of minutes, add the garlic. Remove from the heat and add the cabbage, beetroot, apple, orange zest and juice, remaining vinegar and sugar. Lightly season and stir everything together. Cover with a tight fitting lid and cook in a moderate (170/gas3) oven (or over the stove) until the cabbage is just tender, stirring half way through.
Pat the turkey steaks dry with kitchen paper, heat a frying pan with the remaining oil. Add the turkey steaks and cook on one side only for a minute or so until browned. Stir the lentils into the red cabbage, then place the steaks on top, browned side up. Combine the mustard with the stock and pour over the top. Cover and return to the oven or stove for a further 20 minutes until the cabbage is tender and the turkey is cooked through.
SPICED SAUSAGE ROLLS
1 tbsp oil ½ onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
½ tsp each chilli powder, ground cumin, ground coriander, turmeric
100ml red wine
squeeze of lemon juice
400g sausage-meat
pack puff pastry (approx 320g)
1 egg beaten
Heat the oil in a pan and add the onion, cook for a couple of minutes, then add the garlic and cook for a couple more minutes until soft. Add the spices and cook for a minute or two to release the flavours. Pour in the red wine and let it bubble for a few minutes to reduce, remove from the heat and add the lemon juice, then allow to cool. Combine the sausage-meat with the spice mixture and mix well.
Roll out the pastry onto a floured surface, cut into two rectangular oblongs. Brush one long edge with the beaten egg. Then with floured hands make a long sausage shape with the mixture and place over the pastry. Pull the pastry over the filling to seal the edges over the beaten egg side by pressing firmly together, carefully roll over to make sure the edges are stuck together. Cut into individual sausage rolls and place onto a lined baking sheet. Make two slits in each roll using scissors to snip v shapes out of the pastry. Brush with the rest of the beaten egg and cook in the preheated oven for about 12 to 15 minutes until golden brown and cooked through. Transfer to a wire rack, this helps keep the bottom of the roll crispy.
SWEET POTATO AND CHICK PEA HARISSA ROLLS (Makes 16)
1 pack ready made puff pastry
2 small sweet potatoes, very finely diced
1 tin chick peas, reserve the liquid
½ red onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 heaped tsp harissa spice mix
½ tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp tomato puree
2 tsp poppy or sesame seeds
Toss the potatoes in a little olive oil and salt and pepper, then roast in the oven for about 15 minutes. Gently fry the onion with the garlic and spices, add the tomato puree, sweet potato and chick peas. Combine everything together. Add a little of the chick pea liquid and then use a potato masher or fork to squash the mixture a little. Roll out the ready-made puff pastry on a floured surface and cut into two large rectangles, place the filling mixture in a sausage down the middle about 2cm from the edge, roll over and seal the edges. Brush the top with the chick pea water and sprinkle with the seeds. Bake in a 180 oven for about 20 mins until golden brown on top.
FESTIVE SIDES
- For glazed root vegetables, use equal quantities of (about 2 tbsp) of vegetable oil or light olive oil with honey or maple syrup.
- Roasted sprouts and shallots marry well with finely paired orange zest and juice with oil and a sprig of thyme. Use 2 tbsp oil, 2 tbsp honey and the juice of 1 orange. Or use balsamic vinegar instead of orange.
- For any tray roast veggies, ensure they are cut into equal sized pieces to ensure even cooking.
- Add a few finely chopped rosemary or sage leaves to your Yorkshire pudding mix for extra flavour.
- When seasoning your roasties, ditch the table salt for Malden sea salt flakes, they are the best and make all the difference! Use freshly ground black pepper.
- Crispy roast potatoes give better results when par boiled, dry the moisture and steam off wrapped in a t towel, then make sure the roasting tray is hot before they are tossed in oil, herbs and seasoning to roast in the oven. It’s not essential to par boil and sometimes can make one pan too many, but it will give nice rough edges to your roasties and they will be crispy on the outside yet fluffy in the middle. We know not to waste the water and re use it for other veggies, soup or stock.
- Carrots and parsnips cut length-ways and roasted with 2 tbsp honey, 1tbsp oil and 1tbsp wholegrain mustard combine well together for a tasty twist. Swap the mustard for fennel seeds for another alternative. It’s not necessary to par boil carrots and parsnips, for best results toss in the oil and roast until just tender then mix the honey, orange, fennel, mustard or whatever you’re using and toss through the vegetables to glaze and cook for a further 10 minutes. They can be cooked in advance up to the last step.
ONE POT BRAISED DUCK BREASTS WITH POTATO CELERY AND ORANGE
Pork steaks would work instead of duck and the dish can be cooked over the stove or in the oven.
3 oranges
2 duck breasts, skinless and boneless
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 celery sticks, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
250g new potatoes, halved
75ml vegetable stock
1 star anise
1 red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced
Finely grate the zest from two of the oranges. Arrange the duck breasts in a single layer in a dish and sprinkle over the zest, then squeeze the juice from the two oranges over the duck. Turn them over a few times and then cover and leave in the fridge to marinate for at least an hour or overnight. Allow to come to room temperature before cooking and preheat the oven to about 180/gas4. Peel the remaining orange and cut into 8 segments.
Heat the oil in a flameproof casserole and add the onion and celery, fry for a few minutes and add the garlic and star anise, continue to fry for a minute until the onions are soft but not brown. Remove the onions and celery from the pan and set aside. Lift the duck breasts out of the marinade and place in the casserole, spoon the onions and celery mix over them and then pour over the marinade. Add the potatoes and half the orange segments, scattering them around the duck breasts. Pour over the stock and add the chilli and bring to the boil. Cover and cook for about 35/40 minutes until the duck and potatoes are tender, season to taste. Remove the duck breasts from the casserole and slice them. Spoon the other ingredients into a bowl and top with the sliced duck, then spoon the juices over. Garnish with the few reserved orange slices.
CRANBERRY BREAD PUDDING
This is a deliciously satisfying pudding, full of chocolate fruitiness with a hint of spice and quick and easy to make.
6 thick slices of white bread, cubed
½ cup fresh cranberries
10 squares of dark chocolate
¼ cup toasted almond flakes
¼ cup sugar
2 tbsp butter
4 cups milk
2 tbsp coconut oil
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 small stick cinnamon
3 whole cardamon pods, bruised
3 eggs, beaten
For the topping beat together ½ cup melted butter 1 cup sugar 1 egg 1 tsp vanilla extract ¼ cup cream
Preheat the oven to 180/gas 4.
Cover the bottom of a shallow tart or pie dish with the bread. Scatter the cranberries, chocolate and almonds among the bread cubes and sprinkle the sugar on top. In a saucepan, heat the butter milk and coconut oil with the vanilla, cinnamon and cardamon, heat to lukewarm until the butter has melted. Remove the cardamon pods and cinnamon stick. Whisk the eggs into the milk mixture and pour over the bread allowing to soak in. Bake for about 40 minutes until cooked and slightly set. For the topping, beat the ingredients together and spread evenly over the pudding as soon as it comes out of the oven, return to the oven for a further 20 to 25 minutes until nicely browned. Serve with a good thick custard or ice cream.
CHRISTMAS PUDDING TRIFLE This recipe uses warmed up left over Christmas pudding and cold custard and cream for a quick and simple rich dessert. These quantities make two and can easily be doubled for more.
150g leftover Christmas pudding
200g tinned prunes in syrup
1½ tbsp sherry (optional)
250g ready made custard
150ml double cream
whole nutmeg for grating
Warm the Christmas pudding up in the oven with a splash of water for ten minutes or so to heat through. Meanwhile, drain the prunes and reserve the syrup. Remove the stones from about 8 prunes (if not pitted), the others will keep in the fridge in the syrup for another day.
Roughly chop and combine with the sherry and about a tablespoon of the syrup. Break the warm pudding and arrange over the bottom of a dish (or individual tumblers), add the prunes to each one, pushing them down into the pudding, spoon over a little of the boozy syrup to moisten the pudding then spoon over the custard. Whip up the cream until forms soft peaks and spoon over the custard layer. Finish with a finely grated dusting of fresh nutmeg and serve with any remaining syrup.
CHOCOLATE ORANGE AND CRANBERRY ETON MESS
This is quick and easy to prepare, combine all the ingredients and top with whole pieces of chocolate orange and a fresh orange segment. Use whatever quantities you prefer, whether you like more cream, meringue or fruit, you can’t go wrong.
Ready bought meringue nests A handful of fresh or frozen cranberries Tinned and drained orange segments (or fresh orange) Freshly whipped cream Broken chocolate orange pieces and whole segments to top
For a little extra festive indulgence add a splash of brandy!
MINCEMEAT LOAF CAKE
225g self-raising flour
150g light brown soft sugar
150g butter or margarine
425g mincemeat
2 eggs
50g blanched almonds
A small handful of glacé cherries
Lightly grease and line two small loaf tins and preheat the oven to 160/gas 2. Combine the flour and sugar, add the eggs, butter and mincemeat. Beat together until everything is mixed well. Divide between the two tins and arrange the halved blanched almonds and glacé cherries over the top. Bake for about 1 hour and 15 mins, cool on a wire.
Finish by brushing with warm marmalade melted in a pan and a sprinkling of sieved icing sugar.
Hopefully we will all enjoy this season of goodwill and look forward to bright and promising 2025.